Æbleskivers at Standish Cafe
When my friends remember me, I hope the legacy of note includes my lifelong advocacy for brunch dessert. The favorite meal made of two meals too often presents the problem of whether to go sweet or savory. But I have the answer: Order a standout sweet dish — or two — for the table. There are no rules with brunch, including when to eat it. Inside the cozy Standish Cafe, brunch is served every day it's open, and that means there are six days a week for an opportunity to share some Danish æbleskivers ($14) with a friend.
Hardly a common restaurant dish, æbleskivers could best be described as small, round Dutch pancakes. The barely sweet batter has to be cooked in a special pan with little wells to form the proper shape. They also require a certain amount of babysitting that probably makes it hard to serve at restaurant capacity — they have to be flipped over, traditionally with two wooden sticks to get that ball shape.
Standish Cafe's are exceptional renderings of the traditional dish: crisp on the outside and tender on the inside. Served simply with a dusting of powdered sugar and sides of real maple syrup and fresh-made jam, they are sublime in their simplicity.
Victoria Fremont and Joe Schlarbaum opened the cafe in the fall of 2018. Two longtime hospitality vets mean the menu is largely cafe classics all done with serious attention to detail: The forager's omelet is made with wild mushrooms, there's a breakfast hash made from Brussels sprouts and a burger comes with a swipe of horseradish-spiked sauce, giving the beef a steak-like oomph.
The cafe fills up daily with neighborhood fans, so go with patience and a friend who understands the value of brunch dessert. (Joy Summers)
2403 E. 38th St., Mpls., standish-cafe.com
Thai Hainanese chicken and rice at Hai Hai
Hai Hai will always be the place for coconut shrimp toast for a certain segment of the population. But that doesn't mean the forever favorites on the menu can't share space with some thrilling new dishes. Butternut squash wontons that evoke autumnal ravioli. Fried enoki mushrooms resembling calamari, only vegan. And Khao Man Gai ($19), the Thai version of a Chinese chicken dish. Hainanese chicken and rice looks simple on the plate, but a lot of work goes into it.
"People look at it and they're like, Oh, that looks like some boiled chicken and rice. But it just retains so much flavor," said Hai Hai chef/owner Christina Nguyen. "It's like the elegant solution for using all the parts of the chicken."