The 5 best things our food writers ate around the Twin Cities this week

Pupusas Benedict, pho-style French dip and more at neighborhood eateries. Plus, a new place for dumplings.

Cheese pupusa eggs Benedict at Breakfast Club in Minneapolis' Uptown puts a global spin on the classic. (Nancy Ngo/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Senor borracho eggs Benedict at Breakfast Club

A craving for eggs and hash browns led us to check out this seven-day-a-week daytime 1980s-themed diner in Minneapolis. The Uptown spot is about connecting community and adding a bright spot to your day. Cheery orange and electric blue hues kick things off. George Michael, Whitney Houston and A Flock of Seagulls on the sound system (courtesy of a DJ the day we visited) and pop art further set the tone, as did the welcoming staff.

American diner fare, including hash platters, eggs Benedict, shrimp and grits, and chicken-fried steak, is available. As are dishes with global influences, from kimchi hash brown platters to pupusa eggs Benedict ($17), the latter among the dishes we tried — and the one that ended up being the standout of them all.

A cheese pupusa stands in for the classic English muffin, and the griddled South American pancake with melting quesillo was a great base for two poached eggs. Nicely seasoned carnitas as well as pickled red onions and salsa verde put an ultra-savory and bright twist on the classic Benny. And it was a delicious twist at that. Plus, it came with a side of hash browns and sunshine. Craving mission accomplished — and more. (Nancy Ngo)

1300 Lagoon Av., Mpls., thebreakfastclubmpls.com

The pork wontons in chili sesame sauce at Dumpling Eatery in Eden Prairie are a spicy (but not too spicy) midday treat. (Nicole Hvidsten/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Pork wonton in chili sesame sauce at Dumpling Eatery

There’s a new dumpling eatery in town, and although the sign on the door says “soft opening” and asks for patience, inside it’s a well-oiled machine.

While there are classic Chinese dishes like fried rice, noodles, egg rolls, orange chicken, etc. on the menu of this cute suburban eatery, it would be unthinkablenot to order dumplings. And there are plenty.

The showstoppers are the xiao long bao, or soup dumplings, with a half-dozen flavors (six for $13.95-$16.95). They’re fun to eat — the menu has directions for the uninitiated — and each are delightfully brothy. There’s also a variety of pan-fried dumplings, from pancakes to bao, and boiled dumplings, which includes these spicy pork wontons ($12.95 for eight). Stuffed with flavorful pork, the delicate dumplings swim in a chili-laced broth that’s potent yet approachable for the spice-averse. We were immediately smitten.

With so many dumpling options on the table, you’ll want to dine with those who believe in sharing. They are the perfect antidote for a cold, wind-whipped day. Or any day, really. (Nicole Hvidsten)

12561 Castlemoor Dr., Eden Prairie, dumplingeaterymn.com

Tacos at Carnitas don Tacho in St. Paul
Tacos at Carnitas don Tacho in St. Paul. (Raphael Brion)

Tacos at Carnitas don Tacho

Carnitas don Tacho on Payne Avenue in St. Paul serves traditional, old school Michoacán-style carnitas, in which pork is slow-cooked in lard and its own fat until tender and succulent. While the menu includes other taco fillings, such as a delicate lengua or juicy al pastor with chunks of pineapple, the focus is the carnitas, which are chopped to order. Here the carnitas are exceptional, with a super savory depth of flavor.

For carnitas tacos, the default style is surtido, a mix of different cuts of meat including shoulder, rib, stomach and, most importantly, fatty pork skin, which gives it that soft, gelatinous mouthfeel. If you want, you can get it lean without the fat, aka maciza, or even specify the particular cuts you prefer. Three electrifying salsas play nicely with the carnitas: a bright tomatillo, an earthy and smoky árbol and a spicy habanero. Carnitas don Tacho does a brisk takeout business, selling carnitas by the pound; they’re also on DoorDash. (Raphael Brion)

1193 Payne Av., St. Paul, @carnitasmn

Chuzos de Pollo at Antojitos Ryan.S, a new Ecuadorian spot in north Minneapolis. (Sharyn Jackson/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Chuzos de Pollo at Antojitos Ryan.S

Driving down Lowry Avenue in Minneapolis, I spotted this bright, brand-new Ecuadorian spot and pulled over on a whim — fitting, since antojitos translates loosely to “little whims” or snacks you crave in the moment. The chuzos de pollo ($18) were exactly that: two vivid-yellow chicken skewers draped in a lively green “Ryan’s sauce” with gentle heat and herbal notes, each finished with a sweet plantain at the tip, and generously served with rice, beans and a simple salad. The churrasco (sliced steak in pepper sauce with fries and an egg, $21) was another favorite. The booth-lined restaurant is roomy and clearly built to host large events. Named for the owners’ young son, it’s a warm, welcoming presence on the block. (Sharyn Jackson)

1724 Lowry Av. N., Mpls., antojitosryansrestaurant.com

Thinly sliced ribeye, braised greens, shaved onions on a crusty baguette with  a bowl of pho broth for dipping at Grand Avenue's Em Que Viet.
Thinly sliced ribeye, braised greens, shaved onions on a crusty baguette with a bowl of pho broth for dipping at Em Que Viet on Grand Avenue in St. Paul. (Joy Summers/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Pho dip at Em Quê Viêt

When comfort cravings force the choice of sandwich or soup, call on Em Quê Viêt for the Pho Dip ($15.) The brilliant combination of a French dip style sandwich of a crusty baguette loaded with beef, braised greens and shaved onion comes with a small bowl of aromatic pho broth for dipping. The savory and juicy combo is one of those ideas so good, it’s almost hard to believe this isn’t a commonplace dish.

Em Quê Viêt is known for those State Fair-famous mega eggrolls, but the menu goes deeper than that one delicious dish. The Pho Dip is one of several that blends traditional Vietnamese cuisine with modern dining tastes. Plus, it’s a savory bundle that travels well. So, it’s just as enjoyable inside the light and lovely restaurant as it is wrapped in the coziness of home. (Joy Summers)

1332 Grand Av., St. Paul, 651-330-4363, emqueviet.com

about the writers

about the writers

Sharyn Jackson

Reporter

Sharyn Jackson is a features reporter covering the Twin Cities' vibrant food and drink scene.

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Joy Summers

Food and Drink Reporter

Joy Summers is a St. Paul-based food reporter who has been covering Twin Cities restaurants since 2010. She joined the Minnesota Star Tribune in 2021.

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Nancy Ngo

Assistant food editor

Nancy Ngo is the Minnesota Star Tribune assistant food editor.

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Nicole Hvidsten

Taste Editor

Nicole Ploumen Hvidsten is the Minnesota Star Tribune's senior Taste editor. In past journalistic lives she was a reporter, copy editor and designer — sometimes all at once — and has yet to find a cookbook she doesn't like.

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Raphael Brion

Critic

Raphael Brion is the Minnesota Star Tribune's restaurant critic. He previously wrote about and led restaurant coverage for Food & Wine, Bonappetit.com and Eater National.

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Nancy Ngo/The Minnesota Star Tribune

Pupusas Benedict, pho-style French dip and more at neighborhood eateries. Plus, a new place for dumplings.

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