Find world-class shelling and birdwatching on Florida’s Sanibel Island

Forty-five minutes after I landed at Southwest Florida International Airport in Fort Myers, my Uber dropped me off at the Marriott Sanibel Harbour Resort & Spa for a solo weekend full of island exploration, casual dining and reading by the water.

It was my second time visiting Sanibel Island, the first being a high school spring break trip almost 10 years ago. What I remember most from that trip are sunset beach walks, my sister and I searching for sand dollars and the least-broken shells, and going to a spa for the first time with my mom, which felt like a very big deal at the time.

Ten years later, my itinerary wasn’t all that different, and Sanibel looked much the same.

Three years ago, Hurricane Ian flooded the Fort Myers and Sanibel area. Then in 2024, the area was hit by strong winds from hurricanes Helene and Milton, which tore the roof from the bayside hotel’s convention center and scattered debris across the property. Today, repairs have been completed, and the towering coastal resort feels fully restored, with little to suggest the scale of the storms that passed through.

Saturday started early with a walk along the boardwalk that connects the main hotel to the spa. I had an appointment for the Sanibel Relaxation Massage, a full-body treatment designed to ease tension without tipping into deep-tissue territory. Afterward, ever the Minnesotan, I couldn’t resist spending some time relaxing in the sauna and steam room, letting the rest of the morning slip away.

My post-spa lunch was a Greek salad from the poolside cabana — fresh, light, and exactly what sounded good after the spa. I ate and read travel magazines by the pool, until it was time to head over the causeway to Sanibel Island for the afternoon.

One thing I didn’t anticipate: Instead of a rental car, I Ubered everywhere during the weekend, but quickly realized how scarce car service can be in the islands. It worked for a solo trip without any urgent appointments, but it did require patience.

And there are plenty of other spots to check out in between aquatic excursions. Wickie’s Lighthouse Restaurant is a prime stop for casual seafood. Gramma Dot’s at the Sanibel Marina is a good place to linger over lunch while boats drift in and out. MudBugs Cajun Kitchen has sweet happy hour deals and plenty of oyster platters and po’boys to share.

I arrived at the wildlife refuge for a 90-minute guided tour with Tarpon Bay Explorers. The refuge, named for the political cartoonist-turned-conservationist Ding Darling, is home to a lush mangrove forest and more than 245 bird species.

During Hurricane Ian, the refuge was flooded, disrupting the delicate balance between salt- and freshwater and displacing many animals. In the years since, aided by time and recovery efforts by Sanibel residents, vegetation has begun to rebound, and animals such as manatees and opossums have gradually returned, though populations have not yet reached pre-storm levels.

As I waited for the excursion to begin, I felt Florida’s infamous no-see-ums, the nearly invisible flies my hotel had warned about at the front desk. Tarpon Bay Explorers has kayak and bus tours, and I opted to ride on a little white open-air bus, as it was the more sun-safe option. We puttered along a quiet one-way road, pausing every few minutes as our driver pointed out native plant life and birds that might otherwise have blended into the trees.

Beyond spotting white ibis, herons and an iguana, the tour delved into what makes Sanibel and adjacent Captiva Island unique, including a history of piracy and of conservation efforts, and, of course, their world-class shelling. Unlike most of Florida’s barrier islands, Sanibel runs east to west and sits on a continental shelf, which is why piles of shells wash onto its shores.

In the Great Hall of Shells, I learned about everything from wampum and the intricate art of Sailor’s Valentines to shell-encrusted furnishings and even how shrimp shells are studied for use in anti-cancer treatments. Part of this gallery had recently been completed in October, marking the final phase of rebuilding after damage from Hurricane Ian.

I booked a car back to the hotel and spent my Saturday night dining outdoors at Charley’s Cabana Bar on the resort’s patio, as the sun set over the water. (The Marriott’s tennis-adjacent Courtside Steakhouse has also reopened, just in time for Twins spring training in Fort Myers.)

Sunday morning was just as easygoing. I grabbed coffee from the hotel cafe and sipped it on the dock, watching two dolphins frolic together and other guests gather for waterfront yoga, the water calm and birds squawking in the distance.