A ‘sun-drunk’ and serene visit to Portland, Ore.

From drag Golden Girls to gardens, beaches to mountains, two friends explore Portland’s quirky charm and Oregon’s natural wonders.

For the Minnesota Star Tribune
October 4, 2025 at 3:28PM
The Portland, Ore. skyline, with Mount Hood in the distance, on Aug. 19, 2025. (RUTH FREMSON/The New York Times)

As we made our way from downtown Portland, Ore., to the Central Eastside district on a Friday evening in August, I commented to our rideshare driver on how friendly everyone had been since we landed at the airport that afternoon.

“Oh, they’re all sun-drunk,” he explained. My travel companion, also named Amy, and I smiled. Since Portland is known as one of the country’s cloudiest cities, it makes sense that a sunny stretch would be appreciated. Coming from smoky skies in Minneapolis, we were happy to soak up the sunshine — and clean air.

When one of my favorite cabaret performers, Bridget Everett, announced a series of West Coast shows, Amy and I decided on attending her Portland date. I’d never been there, and she was fond of the city. We intended to make the most of a four-day trip.

Our charming driver dropped us off at the Funhouse Lounge, a quirky arts venue. The Funhouse was hosting its own version of “Golden Girls Live!,” inspired by the beloved sitcom we used to watch with our grandmothers when we were growing up. The fantastic cast in drag performed two clever, original episodes, complete with hilarious 1980s-style commercial breaks. We were delighted by the photo op afterward with the cast and a rattan sofa.

Portland's expansive International Rose Test Garden. (Amy Carlson Gustafson/For the Minnesota Star Tribune)

Exploring the city

The next day, we got up early and took a short walk from our base at the lovely Heathman Hotel to the farmers market on the Portland State University campus. With more than 100 unique vendor stalls, it was sensory overload. I was kicking myself for not booking a place with a kitchen. I grabbed some peaches, hazelnuts and pastries for later before heading to the Portland Japanese Garden.

Even while crowded, the 12-acre garden in Washington Park provided a sanctuary of Japanese landscape design. Exploring the rock gardens, quaint paths, lush green foliage, rustic tea garden and bonsai trees helped me quickly shed travel stress. We enjoyed an iced mugicha tea and mochi ice cream at the cafe, then walked down to the nearby International Rose Test Garden, home to more than 10,000 rose bushes that bloom from May to October. I took a break on a shady bench, closed my eyes and let the smell of thousands of roses soak in.

We left the serene setting for the Pearl District. Exploring local bookstores while traveling is a must for me, but I totally failed to prepare for our Powell’s City of Books stop. I must’ve missed the part about it spanning an entire block, with four floors and half a million books. Next time, I’ll have to carve out multiple hours to explore.

We ended the day on a high note on the other side of the Willamette River in the Clinton neighborhood, with a lovely dinner at Jacqueline, a seafood restaurant and oyster bar. I’m still dreaming about their cold, smoked scallops.

Haystack Rock in Cannon Beach, Ore. (Amy Carlson Gustafson/For the Minnesota Star Tribune)

A trip to the beach

Sunday, we headed to the Oregon coast for some ocean time. On the way to Cannon Beach, we made a stop at the flagship Tillamook Creamery. Again, I underestimated the size and scope of the place — it was like Disneyland for cheese-loving families. I picked up some local non-cheese items — marionberry jelly and fancy salted caramels. After all, I can get Tillamook cheese back at home. We also stopped by the charming and less hectic Blue Heron French Cheese Co. just down the road.

Known for one of the best beaches in Oregon, the town of Cannon Beach was busy when we arrived. Parking took patience, but once our bare feet hit the sand, it was worth it. The beach is four miles long, so it never felt crowded until we got closer to Haystack Rock, a gigantic basalt sea stack that rises 235 feet from the edge of the shoreline and is one of the state’s most recognizable landmarks. I took dozens of photos while searching with binoculars for cute tufted puffins among the rocks.

A view of Mount Hood in Oregon in August. (Amy Carlson Gustafson/For the Minnesota Star Tribune)

A mountain destination

We decided on another day trip for our last full day in Oregon — to majestic Mount Hood via the Columbia River Gorge. It was a picturesque drive, and we both fell in love with the Hood River Fruit Loop trail, a 35-mile stretch of country roads lined with farm stands, wineries, breweries, cideries and flower fields.

We dropped by Pearl’s Place Fruit Stand for a Pearl’s Peach (fresh peaches, brown sugar, cinnamon, housemade granola, vanilla soft serve and whipped cream); Draper Girls Country Farm for some hard cider; Packer Orchards & Bakery, where I picked up some cherry barbecue sauce; and Van Gogh Lavender Farm, where we enjoyed the aroma and beauty of lavender fields.

We made a pit stop at Mount Hood’s south slope to see the Timberline Lodge, a popular mountain retreat and National Historic Landmark. As a fan of “The Shining,” I knew that the lodge served as the exterior of the classic horror movie’s Overlook Hotel. Pop-culture bucket list item — check.

We trekked back to Portland for a memorable dinner at Thai restaurant Hat Yai before the sold-out Bridget Everett show at the Newmark Theatre. I was going to order the restaurant’s famous Southern Thai fried chicken until I saw the special — an addictive combo of rich curry, smoked black cod, shrimp and bay scallops. It turned out to be my favorite meal of the entire trip. However, other Amy was not a fan, which led to our most significant disagreement of the trip.

The next morning, we arrived at Portland International Airport early, soaking up the cozy vibe beneath its timber ceilings and live trees. I boarded with a carry-on bag stuffed with local treats and handmade finds — a fitting finale to our Portland adventure.

Amy Carlson Gustafson is a Twin Cities-based journalist.

about the writer

about the writer

Amy Carlson Gustafson

For the Minnesota Star Tribune

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