Revisiting Glacier National Park by train, with a family of 20

When I was 12, my family took a legendary summer trip to Glacier National Park, a vacation that generated family lore for years to come.

We retell the stories to this day, like when my younger sister got lost on a hike and was found eating an ice cream cone at Lake McDonald Lodge, and a moose blocked the trail when my dad tried to search for her, or when we took showers in glacial waterfalls.

Last summer, we returned — this time with an entourage of 20 people spanning three generations. My parents (now in their 70s), my four siblings and most of our partners, and nine nieces and nephews set off on a 12-day journey to revisit this special place.

We began by train on Amtrak’s Empire Builder, departing from St. Paul. The nearly 24-hour ride carried us from the Midwest through the prairie to the Rocky Mountains in Montana. Yes, the beds are tiny and the travel bumpy, but the experience of moving through the countryside unhindered by road signs and cars is luxurious in itself.

We got off the train at East Glacier Park Station, footsteps from our first overnight booking: Glacier Park Lodge, a grand historic building with giant Douglas fir trunks for columns. Operated by Pursuit Collections on land leased from the Blackfeet Nation, the 1913 lodge had a majestic presence.

From that base, the Two Medicine area became a frequent destination. It’s a lesser-traveled southeastern part of the park, with a stunning lake flanked by layers of green and blue peaks. Our first hike there ended early for my mom, who has Alzheimer’s and joint pain, so she and I walked back to the store for coffee while the rest of the group carried on. It was a recurring pattern — our family split into factions based on stamina and attention span — but we always regathered.

The next day, Mom stayed back with Dad at the lodge, while the rest of us journeyed to Aster Falls, where we waded in a series of pools, on our way toward the Aster Park overlook.

Evenings were often spent outdoors. Instead of dining in the lodge’s restaurant, we picnicked under a large tree, eating local pizza or Mexican takeout, and playing volleyball and cornhole afterwards. The outdoor setting was more relaxing for our rambunctious group than a seated environment, and we relished the fresh air.

We also explored the town of East Glacier Park. My partner and I had a delightful breakfast at the Whistle Stop Restaurant. I shared a BLT with my mom at Two Medicine Grill. A highlight was visiting Renegade Studio, owned by Valentina LaPier of the Blackfeet tribe. Her gallery featured contemporary Blackfeet art — paintings, jewelry and sculpture. I bought my mom a necklace as a gift.

For the second leg of the trip, we relocated via shuttle bus, across the Continental Divide to the West Glacier area — and an Airbnb near Kalispell, Mont., called Turnbuckle Ranch. It had three houses, a barn, a windmill and a converted grain silo with a hot tub, where one evening I took my mom for a sunset soak. We got a couple of rental cars for this part of the trip, giving us flexibility with food, hikes and illnesses.

From Kalispell, we accessed the park’s west side. The logistics were more difficult — longer drives, busier entrances, parking battles — but the payoff was worth it for our momentous visit to Avalanche Lake.

Starting on a boardwalk through a wooded path adorned with oversized boulders, the hike is nearly 6 miles, and a bit challenging for our smallest hikers. However, my youngest nephews were real troupers, and as we were hiking, I remembered my little brother at age 5 being dubbed “the pathfinder” by my father, in order to encourage him to stay at the front of the line. George, my youngest nephew, became our present-day pathfinder, a role he took seriously, even with a great many breaks to rest and also climb on rocks.

That sense of wonder continued when we reached Avalanche Lake, which looked like something out of a fantasy realm. The almost turquoise water was surrounded by mountains, with several distant waterfalls spilling into the lake. The bravest members of our group dove into the frigid waters for a crisp, refreshing swim.

We also explored the popular Lake McDonald via a scenic boat ride, led by a ranger named Ranger (yes, really), who explained how glaciers carved these U-shaped valleys. One day, some of my siblings and older nephews tackled the strenuous 15-mile Highline Trail, while others of us took gentler routes like the Johns Lake Loop — with a Mini Mountain Mini Golf outing thrown in for good measure.

Beyond Glacier, we also ventured to nearby Flathead National Forest as well as Whitefish Mountain Resort, which operates a chairlift.

At the top of the lift, a group of us took a short hike before lunch at the resort’s mountaintop restaurant, Summit House. By this time, my nieces and nephews were adept at spotting huckleberries, so we all had a fun time picking the tangy berries. While I don’t know if they will remember this particular moment with their auntie, it was a meaningful addition to my stock of Glacier memories.