When the tank is slow to fill

July 23, 2008 at 9:30PM

Q During the past few months I've had a problem filling the gas tank on my 2001 Olds Alero. When I use a gas pump nozzle with an automatic shut-off lever, the pump starts but then quickly shuts off. Even when I try to manually control the flow of gasoline into my tank, the pump automatically shuts off after a second or two. As a result, it takes a long time to fill up. What is causing this problem?

A As fuel flows into the tank, it displaces the same volume of air inside the tank. That air has to be properly vented or the automatic shut-off on the fuel dispensing nozzle will stop the flow of fuel into the tank -- just as it will when the tank is approaching full. If the "service engine soon" light is not on, check the large-diameter fuel-filler and small-diameter vent hoses that connect the fuel filler opening to the tank itself. If either of those hoses is crimped, pinched, kinked or in some way restricted, the automatic shut-off will stop the fuel flow into the tank.

If the "service engine soon" light is on, there may be a problem with the evaporative emissions system.

Q I feel a slight vibration in the steering wheel of my 1999 Saab 95 Wagon at speeds of 65 miles per hour and higher. The Michelin tires are less than two years old and have been balanced yearly. The garage indicated that the alloy rims are true. I haven't had the car aligned in about four years because I've had no issues with the car tracking straight and no uneven tire wear. Should I consider an alignment?

A Unless a wheel alignment problem has created significant or unusual wear on the tires, realigning the front wheels probably won't solve your vibration. First, rotate the tires front to back to see whether this affects the vibration. If it does, the problem is with balance, tire/wheel run-out, an out-of-round tire or an internal tire problem such as a broken or shifted belt.

If this doesn't change the vibration, the suspension and steering components should be carefully inspected for wear or play.

Q The "check engine" light on my 2002 VW Golf often came on when the weather was damp. Sometimes this was accompanied by a rough idle, but after a brief warmup the light went out and it idled normally.

Then, about two months ago, it was damp out and the light came on -- and it has been on ever since. Other than the warning light, the car runs great. The dealer said that it's $115 to do a full diagnostic but that, if the light is not flashing, it's probably not a serious problem. I'm inclined to ignore it because I'm so used to it by now.

A Bad idea. The "check engine" light is on for a reason -- there's something amiss in the engine management system. The engine is not operating at its best efficiency, so fuel mileage, performance and emissions are not optimized. It's even possible that the very expensive catalytic converter is at risk.

Step up to the plate and have the diagnostic test done. You may be able to shop this routine service at a lower cost at an independent shop. You might want to visually inspect the ignition coil pack for cracks in its casing that could cause misfires in damp conditions.

Also, remember that the federal government mandates an emissions warranty that specifically covers the computer and catalytic converter for eight years or 80,000 miles on all new passenger vehicles.

about the writer

about the writer

PAUL BRAND, Star Tribune

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