What's old is new again is true both in fashion and in the kitchen. But unlike some of today's styles that mimic the clothes you donated long ago, the pressure cooker is back, and it's better (and safer) than ever.
Those who eschew the Instant Pot as one of those small-appliance fads, prepare to be humbled. Engineer Robert Wang cooked up the first one back in 2009 as a combination pressure cooker/slow cooker — two appliances in one, a cook's dream — and it's been gaining steam ever since.
Now the Instant Pot is so much more. You can sauté, steam, sous vide, make yogurt, broil and air fry, and the list of models, accessories and cookbooks is impossibly long. Issued as a standard 6-quart model, it now has smaller (3-quart) and larger (8-quart) sizes to accommodate various family sizes and uses. Off-brand models are widely available, too.
Yet despite its popularity and myriad uses, one big problem remains — many would-be Instant Potters are afraid to take it out of the box.
Yes, the idea of pressure cooking can sound intimidating, especially to those who remember the version used by mom or grandma. And sure, the noises emerging from the Instant Pot can be a little unsettling the first time around. But taking that initial step can yield big dividends in the kitchen.
The Instant Pot earned a permanent place in my kitchen the second I realized that making pulled pork could be done on a busy weeknight instead of a Sunday afternoon. A family-favorite mac and cheese, Thanksgiving mashed potatoes and cooking nearly perfect rice sealed the deal. Now the Instant Pot is a regular part of my menu planning.
Information overload
Those who are Instant Pot veterans (some call themselves Pot Heads; don't do that) know that while the cooker can be a workhorse, it also can turn out elegant company-worthy dishes for any meal.
Finding recipes isn't difficult. The internet — especially social media — can be indispensable to a cook. There are many websites, Facebook groups and Pinterest boards dedicated to the Instant Pot (the official Instant Pot site alone has more than 1,000 recipes). But it can all be a little overwhelming.
The official Instant Pot Facebook page has more than 3.3 million members. A simple query in that group can quickly yield hundreds of responses, so enter with caution. If you have a question, search for it on the page; there's a good chance someone has asked it before. And everyone has an opinion.
Call me old-fashioned, but cookbooks are my go-to source. Like any cooking method or type of cuisine, there are as many varieties as there are people who use them. It just takes a little time to find one that suits your needs, and for a cook, there are worse ways to spend your time. Any Instant Pot cookbook worth its salt will include a primer on using the appliance as well as must-have accessories. Some also include adaptations for slow cookers or Dutch ovens, taking a helpful one-pot cooking approach.
Among my recent favorites: "Instant Family Meals," by Sarah Copeland (Clarkson Potter, 2020); "Milk Street Fast and Slow Instant Pot Cooking," by Christopher Kimball (Voracious, 2020); "The Complete Instant Pot Collection," (Weldon Owen, 2021); and America's Test Kitchen's "The Complete One Pot," which has more than 400 recipes that range from Instant Pot to sheet-pan meals. Dinner has never tasted so good.
Instant lessons
Despite the glories of the Instant Pot, it's not a one-size-fits-all appliance. Some things I've learned along the way:
Read the directions. Pressure cooking isn't rocket science, but it is science. Take a spin through the owner's manual or research before your maiden Instant Pot voyage. Familiarizing yourself with the names of the parts and settings of your cooker will make using other resources much easier.
It's not always a time-saver. In many instances, it doesn't take any less time to cook in the Instant Pot than it does on the stovetop or the oven after accounting for the time it takes to come to pressure. But it does allow a cook to tend to other tasks — or to take a moment to relax — since a main perk is hands-off cooking.
It didn't replace my Crock-Pot. If I'm making anything for a crowd and want it to simmer away all day, I'll still employ a slow cooker. Ditto if I'm taking something to a gathering. There are certain things that ceramic slow cookers just do better. Do I still need five of them? Probably not.
Always keep it clean. The stainless-steel liner pot has super strengths and can be scrubbed with abandon. It's dishwasher-safe, but I have yet to clean it that way. If it starts to show wear, Bar Keeper's Friend cleaner is the overwhelming favorite to spiff it up.
Clean all of the parts. You'll also want to keep the silicone sealing ring clean. I don't remove it and scrub it down every time, but I do store my Instant Pot with the lid facing up so odors aren't trapped. Some cooks have separate rings for sweet and savory dishes (most Instant Pots come with two rings), but I haven't found that necessary. Basically, anything that detaches, clean.
Accessorize with care. Read reviews before splurging on accessories. A 7-inch springform pan is a versatile must, a close second are the silicone egg-bite cups, which can be used for more than just egg bites. I'd also recommend a glass lid, and I'm about to take the plunge on a second liner pot. The steamer baskets are nice, but I use the same vegetable steamer I use for the stovetop. There's only so much cabinet space.
Use it often. There are meal solutions from breakfast through dinner and dessert, leaving no excuse for the Instant Pot to sit unused. In addition to pasta, vegetables, soups and meat, make oatmeal, yogurt, pudding or cheesecake. Bake a coffee cake. Get the kids involved — with supervision it's a great introduction to one-pot cooking. Once it's part of your routine, it will become indispensable.
All you need to do is take that first step — remove it from the box.
Two-Corn Chowder with Green Chiles and Scallions
Serves 4 to 6.
Note: This recipe is ideal for peak sweet corn season, but frozen corn works just as well. Be sure to use heavy cream; half-and-half or milk lack richness and body and will break apart when cooked. Adapted from "Milk Street Fast and Slow: Instant Pot Cooking at the Speed You Need" by Christopher Kimball (2020, Voracious).
• 3 ears fresh corn, husks and silk removed or 1 (12-oz.) bag frozen yellow corn (see Note)
• 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) salted butter
• 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced, white and green parts reserved separately
• 2 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1 poblano chili, stemmed, seeded and chopped
• 1 (28-oz.) can hominy, rinsed and drained
• 1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, unpeeled, cut into 1-in. chunks
• 3 c. low-sodium chicken broth
• Kosher salt and ground black pepper
• 1/2 c. heavy cream (see Note)
• 4 to 6 slices of bacon, cooked and crumbled
Directions
One at a time, stand each cob in a wide bowl. Using a chef's knife, cut the kernels from the ears of corn; you should have about 3 cups. Use the back of the knife to scrape each cob from top to bottom all around, allowing the liquid to fall into the bowl. Cut each cob in half and reserve separately.
On a 6-quart Instant Pot, select Sauté/High. Add the butter and let melt. Add the scallion whites, garlic, chile and corn kernels and liquid. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the chile is softened, about 7 minutes. Stir in the hominy, potatoes, broth, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper, then distribute in an even layer. Add the corn cobs to the pot.
Press Cancel, lock the lid in place and move the pressure valve to Sealing. Select Pressure Cook or Manual; make sure the pressure level is set to High. Set the cooking time for 7 minutes. When pressure cooking is complete, allow the pressure to reduce naturally for 10 minutes, then release the remaining steam by moving the pressure valve to Venting. Press Cancel, then carefully open the pot.
Remove and discard the corn cobs. Select Sauté/High, then stir in the cream and half of the scallion greens and cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through, about 3 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve sprinkled with bacon and remaining scallion greens and pepper.
Cacio e Pepe Risotto
Serves 4.
Note: In "Instant Family Meals," author Sarah Copeland says, "If you make one thing from this book to give your pressure cooker a fair shot, make this. Risotto in a pressure cooker is a miracle — amazingly quick, bafflingly easy and spot-on delicious." She's absolutely correct.
• 1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 sprigs fresh sage
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 3 small garlic cloves, thinly sliced, optional
• 2 c. Arborio rice, rinsed and drained
• 1/2 c. dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
• 5 c. chicken or vegetable broth
• 1/2 tsp. fine sea salt, plus more as needed
• 3/4 to 1 c. grated pecorino, Romano, Parmesan or a blend of cheeses, plus more for serving
• 3 tbsp. unsalted butter
• Freshly ground black pepper
Directions
Pour the olive oil into the inner pot of pressure cooker and set to Sauté. Add the sage leaves and cook until lightly crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on a paper-towel-lined plate to drain.
Add the onion, garlic and rice to the inner pot and stir to coat in the sage-infused oil. Stir in the wine and cook until it evaporates a little, about 1 minute. Add the broth and 1⁄2 teaspoon salt.
Lock the lid and Pressure Cook on high pressure for 6 minutes. Release the pressure manually and open the lid. The rice should be tender and have absorbed most of the liquid, but it should still seem a little loose.
Stir in 1⁄2 cup of the cheese and the butter. The risotto will tighten as it cools. Serve warm, sprinkled with additional salt to taste and a generous helping of more cheese and plenty of black pepper. Garnish with the crispy sage leaves.
Cardamom Coffee Cake
Serves 8.
As an avid baker, I was skeptical about baking in the Instant Pot. This was delicious, with a caveat: The crumbly topping, while delicious, doesn't get crunchy. Note: To give it a bright citrusy note, add 1 teaspoon of grated orange zest to the filling and 1 tablespoon grated orange zest to the cake batter. From "The Complete Instant Pot Collection" (Weldon Owen, 2022).
For the filling:
• 3 tbsp. light brown sugar
• 1 1⁄2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1⁄2 tsp. ground cardamom
• 1⁄4 tsp. kosher salt
For the topping:
• 1⁄4 c. plus 1 tbsp. all-purpose flour
• 1⁄4 c. light brown sugar
• 1⁄2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1⁄2 tsp. ground cardamom
• 2 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
For the cake:
• 2 c. all-purpose flour
• 2 tsp. baking powder
• 1⁄2 tsp. baking soda
• 1 tsp. kosher salt
• 1⁄2 c (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
• 1⁄2 c. granulated sugar
• 1 egg
• 1 tsp. vanilla extract
• 2⁄3 c. whole milk
• 1 1⁄2 c. water
Directions
To prepare the filling: In a small bowl, stir together the brown sugar, cinnamon, cardamom and salt.
To prepare the topping: In a small bowl, stir together the flour, brown sugar, cinnamon and cardamom. Stir in butter until a crumbly, evenly moistened mixture forms.
To prepare the cake: Spray a 7-inch springform pan with cooking spray. In a bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. In a large bowl, whisk together the butter, sugar, egg and vanilla until smooth. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture in two batches, alternating with the milk, beginning and ending with the flour mixture. Stir until just mixed after each addition.
Transfer half of the batter to prepared pan and spread evenly (it will be difficult to spread). Sprinkle evenly with the filling mixture, and then top with remaining batter, again spreading evenly. Sprinkle topping evenly over the surface. Cover the pan with aluminum foil, crimping the edges.
Pour the water into the Instant Pot. Place springform pan on the steamer rack and lower into the pot. Lock the lid in place and turn the valve to Sealing. Press the Pressure Cook button and set the cook time for 65 minutes at high pressure.
Let the steam release naturally for 10 minutes, then turn the valve to Venting to quick-release any residual steam. Carefully remove the lid and transform pan to a cooling rack. Remove foil and let the cake cool for 10 minutes.
To serve, remove the pan sides, cut into wedges and serve warm.
Orecchiette with Sardinian Sausage Ragu
Serves 4 to 6.
Note: Saffron gives this simple Sardinian ragu lots of character, but since it can be expensive, we've kept it optional. Our favorite pasta for this recipe is orecchiette, but small shells work well, too, or any other small pasta that cooks in about 10 minutes. Don't use canned tomato sauce, which contains seasonings such as salt and garlic powder. From "Milk Street Fast and Slow: Instant Pot Cooking at the Speed You Need" by Christopher Kimball (2020, Voracious).
• 1/4 c. extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1/4 tsp. saffron threads, optional
• 2 3/4 c. water
• 1 (14.5-oz.) can tomato purée (see Note)
• 1 lb. orecchiette or small shell pasta (see Note)
• 1 lb. sweet or hot Italian sausage, casing removed, broken into 1/2-in. or smaller pieces
• Kosher salt and ground black pepper
• 1/2 c. pecorino Romano cheese, finely grated, plus more for serving
• 3/4 c. roughly chopped fresh basil, divided
Directions
In a 6-quart Instant Pot, combine the oil and garlic. Select Normal/Medium Sauté and cook, stirring often, until the garlic is golden brown, about 4 minutes. Add the wine and saffron, if using, then cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is slightly syrupy, about 5 minutes. Stir in 2 3/4 cups water, the tomato purée, pasta, sausage and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, breaking up any pieces of pasta that stick together, then distribute in an even layer.
Press Cancel, lock the lid in place and move the pressure valve to Sealing. Select Pressure Cook or Manual; make sure the pressure level is set to High. Set the cooking time for 3 minutes. When pressure cooking is complete, quick-release the steam by moving the pressure valve to Venting. Press Cancel, then carefully open the pot.
Stir the mixture to evenly distribute the sauce, then stir in the pecorino. Taste and season with salt and pepper. stir in 1/2 cup of basil. Serve sprinkled with additional cheese and the remaining 1/4 cup basil.
Breakfast Fried Rice
Serves 4 to 6.
Note: This is from the latest offering by Jeffrey Eisner, creator of the wildly popular Pressure Luck Cooking website and two bestselling Instant Pot cookbooks, which devotees refer to simply as the "yellow" and "blue" books. From "The Simple Comforts Step-by-Step Instant Pot Cookbook," by Jeffrey Eisner (Voracious, 2022).
• 2 c. jasmine rice, rinsed for 90 seconds and drained
• 2 c. ham broth (e.g., Ham Better Than Bouillon) or chicken broth
• 1/2 lb. unpeeled baby potatoes, rinsed and quartered
• 8 large eggs
• 1/2 c. whole milk or half-and-half
• 3 tbsp. salted butter
• 8 oz. thick-cut bacon, diced (see Note)
• 1 lb. breakfast sausage, crumbled or sliced into 1/4-in.-thick disks
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced
• 1 green bell pepper, seeded and diced
• 1/4 c. pure maple syrup
• 2 c. shredded cheddar cheese
• Hot sauce and/or ketchup, for serving, optional
Directions
Add the rinsed rice and broth to the Instant Pot and stir. Top with the potatoes. Secure the lid and move the valve to the sealing position. Hit Manual or Pressure Cook on High Pressure for 3 minutes. When done, allow a 10-minute natural release followed by a quick release, then fluff the rice with a fork.
While the rice is cooking, stir together the eggs and milk in a bowl and set aside.
Hit Cancel and transfer the rice and potatoes to a bowl. Rinse and completely dry the liner pot and return it to the Instant Pot. (You can leave as is, too; things might stick to the bottom in the next step, but not a big deal.)
Add the butter to the pot and hit Sauté and adjust to the More or High setting. After 3 minutes of heating, add the bacon and sauté for 5 to 10 minutes, until crispy. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the bacon to the bowl with the rice and potatoes.
Add the sausage, onion and bell pepper to the pot and sauté in the bacon grease for 5 minutes, until softened and browned. As the veggies release liquid, scrape the bottom of the pot to get any browned bacon bits up. Add the egg mixture to the pot and cook, stirring constantly, and scraping the bottom of the pot, until it becomes cooked into broken-down bits, 4 to 5 minutes. Turn off the pot by hitting Cancel.
Return the rice, potatoes, and bacon to the pot, add the maple syrup, fold in the cheese, and stir until fully combined. Serve with hot sauce or ketchup, if desired.
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