Rustica’s Wayzata location opens this week. Here’s what to expect

Rustica is coming home — at least for co-owner Mike DeCamp. On Friday, the Minneapolis bakery and cafe opens its newest location in downtown Wayzata, a few blocks from where DeCamp grew up.

“I like bringing something new to the town I grew up in,” DeCamp said during a walk-through of the Shea-designed space earlier this week. “It’s just nice to spend some time down here again.”

The expansion brings a Twin Cities staple to the lakefront suburb. Rustica started in Minneapolis in 2004 and built a loyal following for its French-style breads, laminated pastries and an inky-dark bittersweet chocolate cookie that turned into a local icon. When restaurant group Jester Concepts (Parlour, Butcher & the Boar, P.S. Steak) bought the brand last year, the plan was to grow its footprint while keeping those core baked goods intact.

The new Rustica lands on Lake Street, in the former Wuollet Bakery space. When the team took it over, they found a compact setup with remnants of the previous tenant’s heavy emphasis on takeout. The rebuild keeps the footprint modest but adds seating for 28, beveled subway tile, schoolhouse-style lights and, on one wall, custom wallpaper patterned after the score marks on the top of a loaf of bread, a nod to the item for which Rustica is best known.

Wayzata is also the first location where the company will debut a more robust savory program, adding breakfast and lunch dishes to the full lineup of pastries, breads and coffee drinks. The goal isn’t to turn Rustica into a sit-down restaurant, but “we wanted to elevate the food offering,” DeCamp said.

The bakery’s production is still based in Minneapolis under pastry chef Shawn McKenzie, who oversees all the breads, pastries and tarts. Those cases will be stocked with the same lineup regulars know — from croissants to that signature cookie — but now they’ll be joined by even more. The beloved rustic olive loaf, which was discontinued, may even be on its way back, starting here. “We get asked about it 45 or 50 times a week,” DeCamp said.

Savory dishes are being developed by chef Arash Pashaei, who has worked with DeCamp since a long-ago internship at La Belle Vie. Wayzata will serve as a test kitchen before rolling successful items out to other Rustica locations.

Coffee remains core to Rustica’s identity. The counter contains two striking pour-over units, and the beans are roasted by former Rustica owner Greg Hoyt. There’s a lineup of seasonal lattes, such as matcha with orange and cardamom, a pumpkin spice vanilla latte, mochas and flat whites.

Jester Concepts’ footprint has been quietly expanding westward, including a burst of openings this year in Excelsior, and Rustica now embarking on its fourth location.

Wayzata, though, feels different. During construction, DeCamp found himself recognizing neighbors, reminiscing about old storefronts and watching new ones come in. “There’s still a lot of staples from when I grew up,” he said, naming the local butcher shop, among others.

Beyond the opening rush, DeCamp said he hopes to see Rustica become an integral part of that community. “We’re gonna spend a little bit of time making sure that this provides a good impression for the neighborhood,” he said. “Go say hi to the neighbors, be involved in the neighborhood.”