When President Obama makes his historic Hiroshima visit on May 27, he'll likely see the iconic A-Bomb Dome. It's one of the few structures standing from the Aug. 6, 1945, blast, and the UNESCO World Heritage Site serves as a solemn testament to the devastating power of nuclear weapons.
It's not just the building that's somber: Visitors were mostly silent on the gray morning when I visited Hiroshima during a 2014 reporting trip coordinated by the independent Foreign Press Center of Japan.
Most quietly contemplated the reminders of Hiroshima's horror: At the A-Bomb Dome, the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, and at an adjacent museum housing ghostly artifacts such as a display of steps stained with a permanent shadow of an incinerated victim and a watch stopped at the exact moment of the fireball.
But even more impressive than the park, museum or the A-Bomb Dome's exposed iron skeleton was the iron will of Hiroshima's survivors.
Three politely and quietly recalled the randomness of survival, the chaos of the immediate aftermath, and the lifelong struggle to rebuild bodies, lives and society.
But it wasn't the past that most animated them. It was the future.
"If you visit the Peace Park, the peace bell has a map with no borderlines — that's the spirit of mankind," said Sunao Tsuboi, who described his journey from a young man who "got the wrong education" and became a "right-wing person who adored the emperor" to a leading peace activist campaigning for disarmament in several countries. "I found out the lives of human beings are very precious," he said.
Fellow survivor Kenji Kitigawa also focused on a nuclear-free future. "World peace is kind of a dream far away," he said. "It might be difficult, but we have to do something, and the goal is the total ban of nuclear weapons. I feel what I am doing is so small, but one seed of grain will get the crop in the future."