Man works for decades on quest to visit every Boundary Waters lake reachable by portage

Bill Rom, 80, crossed several more from his list this summer.

The Minnesota Star Tribune
August 28, 2025 at 9:30PM
Bill Rom with a haul of trout during a recent trip near the northern border waters of Saganaga Lake. (Photo provided)

When Bill Rom set his canoe in Larch Lake in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness last week, by his calculation it marked a major milestone.

It was the last place the 80-year-old believed he needed to check off on his quest to visit what he thought was every lake reachable by portage in the BWCAW and the adjacent Canadian wilderness of Quetico Provincial Park, he said.

Though he has since learned that he likely missed several lakes, he said, visiting nearly all of them is still a feat that few others — if any — have accomplished. It has taken Rom roughly six decades.

“I’ve done 99.7 percent,” he estimated Friday, adding that he will try to make up for those he has missed.

Federal managers of the BWCAW don’t keep a ready list of all its lakes based on such criteria. The BWCAW has more than 1,000 lakes; Quetico, more than 2,000.

“It’s been a lifelong quest,” he said Thursday from Ely, where he spends many summers and where his family name is synonymous with canoe travel.

His father, also Bill, owned and operated Canoe Country Outfitters in Ely for 30 years beginning in 1946. The business was considered the largest canoe outfitter in the world at the time. (It was later bought by another family that has been running it for multiple generations.)

The elder Rom put his son to work as a guide, and young Bill recalled spending his teen years and early 20’s leading people on trips through the wilderness and parts of Canada. He took his own side adventures, too, even as he began to navigate life as a medical student at the University of Minnesota. He also recalled that his dad had similar aspirations and useful maps to study.

Bill Rom marks off routes and portages with black lines. (Provided photo)

Rom wrote about his vast paddling experiences in his 1987 book “Canoe Country Wilderness: A Guide’s Canoe Trails Through the BWCA and Quetico.” By then, he said, he’d canoed “most everything.”

Winters were spent investigating remote routes to pick off in warm weather when time allowed around his working life as a medical researcher and professor in New York City.

This summer’s trip into Larch Lake was among five trips this season that included 77 portages. A long trip in the Quetico had more than 50. This summer’s trips were varied, too. Some with family and friends; others solo.

Leaving Larch, he made his way over to Gunflint Lodge where owner John Frederickson bought him a celebratory beer. Rom unfurled a map, coursing with the closest thing to documentation of amazing travels: Rom traces the portages, one to next, with a black line after he’s completed them.

“If you think there is any glory to every lake, there is misery equal to glory,” Rom added, laughing at memories of mud holes under foot and, at times, under the canoe.

But Rom gets serious when talking about changes he’s witnessed in the wild over the decades. On a trip that included the Frost and Louse rivers this summer, he said spruce budworms’ decimation of balsam fir stands was unmistakable. Warming temperature trends in normally cold water lakes also make him worry about his beloved lake trout.

Jason Zabokrtsky, a longtime Ely outfitter, had praise for Rom after word of accomplishment circulated.

“The amount of information that he has about the nooks and crannies [of the wilderness] is incredibly special,” Zabokrtsky said. “I’m a little jealous.”

After some planned downhill skiing in Colorado this winter, Rom says he will venture back into canoe country.

“I’m going to stay at it,” he said.

Clarification: This story has been updated to reflect that Rom is still missing some lakes in his quest to visit all of them.
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Bob Timmons

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Bob Timmons covers news across Minnesota's outdoors, from natural resources to recreation to wildlife.

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