"Julia," the HBO Max series chronicling Julia Child's trajectory from cookbook author to unexpected television star and national icon, ends May 5. (The streaming service has yet to announce whether there will be a second season.) And what better way to usher in the finale than with a preshow meal designed by "The French Chef" herself?
Child's vast canon of recipes is known for its deference to French tradition, fearless approaches to various animals and their parts, and the liberal use of butter. What they're not known for? Ease. Sure, a French omelet takes less than 30 seconds to make. And countless attempts to perfect the flip-and-roll movement that defines it.
"Learning to make a good omelet is entirely a matter of practice," Child writes in her seminal "Mastering the Art of French Cooking." "Do one after another for groups of people every chance you get for several days, and even be willing to throw some away. You should soon develop the art."
Some of her most famous recipes are the titles of episodes in the series that stars Sarah Lancashire as the lilt-voiced Child: coq au vin, beef Bourguignon, crêpes Suzette — those dishes that, in "Mastering," send you all over the book looking for secondary recipes just to get all the ingredients ready. Or that involve setting something aflame.
But Child gave us so much more than that. She made French cooking approachable, even if it took time and work to get there. As "Julia" winds down, take on the challenge of a Child recipe or two to honor the grande dame of French home cooking. Bon appétit!
Chicken Waterzooi
Serves 4 to 6.
Note: This Flemish dish is traditionally made with fish, but Child liked to swap in a whole cut-up chicken, which poaches in a delicate broth. It's a quick meal; the most time-consuming part is julienning all the vegetables. The creamy soup is loaded with spring vegetables, deepened with vermouth and made luxurious with the addition of six — yes, six — egg yolks. Writing in the New York Times in 1987, Child credited the recipe to her teacher Max Bugnard, who had a restaurant in Brussels before World War II, and served the dish with eel and white fish in that rich broth. "A divine ambrosia indeed," Child wrote, "and in those halcyon days nobody gave a thought to six egg yolks, large dollops of heavy cream and lashings of butter." She called this "one of my favorite recipes." Serve with noodles or dumplings, or crusty French bread to sop up that broth. From the New York Times.
• 2 large carrots