The snow on Mount Erciyes sparkles in the early afternoon sun. The skiing on this volcano nearly 4,000 meters high is among the best in Turkey. At the bottom of one slope, a group of secular Turks dance and drink beer outside a new hotel. On the other, alcohol-free, side of the mountain, local families and Arab tourists drink tea. The entrance to a nearby mosque is littered with ski boots; young women in headscarves pelt each other with snowballs.
Down the mountain in Kayseri, the view is considerably bleaker. Not long ago, this industrial city was touted as the birthplace of the Anatolian Tigers, a generation of conservative businessmen who helped create Turkey's economic boom in the 2000s.
Today, many of the Tigers are behind bars in the mass arrests that followed an attempted coup last July. The boom is over.
Exports from the region have fallen by at least 4 percent over the past year. Investment has dried up. For the local economy to recover, said Mahmut Hicyilmaz, head of Kayseri's chamber of commerce, "Our industrialists and our investors need a sense of security."
They do not have it. Roughly 40,000 people have been arrested across Turkey since the summer, and an increasing number are businessmen, from construction magnates to owners of chains of baklava stores. Their crime, say prosecutors, was to have bankrolled the Gulen movement, a religious sect accused of masterminding the coup.
Armed with emergency powers, the government of President Recep Tayyip Erdogan says it has taken over more than 800 companies worth a combined $10 billion since July. A court in Istanbul recently confiscated the assets of dozens of writers and journalists arrested because of suspected Gulenist sympathies. Officials say they are fighting the financing of terrorism. Critics call it state-sanctioned plunder.
In Kayseri, scores of entrepreneurs — including the heads of Boydak Holding, the region's biggest employer — have been arrested for financing Gulenist banks, schools and foundations. Boydak, which owns three of Turkey's biggest furniture companies, has been seized by the state. More than 60 businessmen face terrorism-related charges. Some have fled abroad. Hicyilmaz himself was detained for over two weeks last August.
The worst-kept secret in town, said a local shopkeeper, "is that nearly everyone here was in business with the [Gulenists] at one point or another." The other open secret is that they were once encouraged to so by Erdogan's government.