Zucchini may not inspire the same giddy anticipation as sweet corn, but I'm thrilled that it's now in season.
I do love it grilled and piled with fresh herbs and lots of lemon, or thinly sliced and caramelized in a pan, then tossed with cherry tomatoes and pasta. Shredded zucchini figures into everyday muffins, waffles and pancakes, adding texture, color and that light vegetable flavor.
It does a lot of good in cornbread, too. I've been browning butter for cornbread and just about everything else for its rich, nutty, toasty flavor. Adding a handful of corn kernels to cornbread gives it pops of sweetness, while shredded zucchini helps keep it moist. When the batter is baked in a heavy cast-iron skillet, it sears and develops a supremely crisp, buttery crust while the cornbread stays tender and light.
Shredded zucchini as an ingredient in baking recipes is similar to shredded carrots or apples. Its neutral flavor works nicely with warm spices, savory herbs and hot peppers. Be sure to choose smaller zucchini that are firm, shiny and dense. Leave it unpeeled to retain the fiber, nutrients and color.
It's better to shred the zucchini than to chop it to maintain a more consistent texture. Once it's shredded, allow it to rest in a colander over the sink for about 10 minutes to drain off any excess moisture. There is no reason to squeeze the zucchini shreds before folding them into the batter.
Add the zucchini as the last ingredient and use a very light hand when mixing. Serve this cornbread hot from the oven, warmed up the next day, for breakfast slathered with butter and jam, or with a hunk of cheddar and an icy cold beer. It's a celebration of summer in a skillet.
Zucchini Corny Cornbread
Serves 4 to 6.
Slightly sweet, with a crunchy, buttery crust, this cornbread is great hot from the oven slathered with butter or a hunk of sharp cheese. The corn kernels add pops of flavor and the flecks of green zucchini give it color and help keep it moist. From Beth Dooley.