Year in review, restaurant-style

Other significant openings

In a remarkably fertile year for restaurant debuts, these newcomers definitely enriched the local dining-out scene: Gather, In Season, Masu Sushi & Robata, Mill Valley Kitchen, Pizzeria Lola, Sun Street Breads and Wise Acre Eatery. Also worth noting: Aji Contemporary Japanese, Current, Element Pizza, the Green Room, Green Spoon, Hazel's Northeast, Indochin, Joan's in the Park, Kinsen Noodles & Wine Bar, the Lowbrow, McCormick's Pub & Restaurant, Mozza Mia, On's Kitchen, Peoples Organic, Rosa Mexicano, Rusty Taco, Rye, SIX15 Room and Zen Box Izakaya.

Doubling up

Adding a second location was the 2011 business plan for a number of Twin Cities restaurants, including American Burger Bar, Black Sheep Pizza, Blue Point, Burger Jones, Chez Arnaud, Grand Szechuan, Krungthep Thai (Bangkok Thai Deli's Eat Street outpost), Little Szechuan, Mesa Pizza, My Burger, Pardon My French, Pig & Fiddle (from the makers of the Muddy Pig), Pittsburgh Blue, Sweets Bakeshop and the Town Hall Tap (a Town Hall Brewery expansion).

Entrepreneurs of the year

Who had the busiest year in the restaurant industry? It's probably a three-way tie. First up: Kim Bartmann (Barbette, Red Stag Supperclub and Bryant-Lake Bowl), who launched just-about-perfect Bread & Pickle at the Lake Harriet bandshell and Pat's Tap, the happening, Skee-Ball-friendly Nicollet Avenue gastropub. Then there's the Blue Plate Restaurant Co. (Highland Grill, Edina Grill, Longfellow Grill, 3 Squares), which opened Scusi (casual Italian with a forward-thinking wine bar) and the Lowry (breakfast-through-late night in Uptown). But the honors might go to Crave super-siblings Kam and Keyvan Talebi, who not only knocked out two new properties -- Sopranos Italian Kitchen and Urban Eatery -- but also threw a big chunk of change at downtown Minneapolis with a gigantic new Crave, complete with a game-changing rooftop terrace.

Street scene

Reality TV shenanigans

Some prize. In May, Jamawn Woods, a Detroit autoworker and the extremely likable winner of NBC's "The Next Great American Restaurant," opened Soul Daddy, a soul food-lite chain-in-the-making, in New York City, Los Angeles and the Mall of America. Eight weeks later, the show's backers pulled the plug, all three restaurants were closed and Woods, who had planned to move to the Twin Cities to be close to his megamall flagship, was out of a job. One out-of-court settlement later, and Woods plans to relaunch his business in Detroit, opening in the spring. Relive the drama at startribune.com/nextgreat.

Change of address

Moving vans were busy this year. Muddy Waters traded up from its tiny 24th-and-Lyndale home for roomier digs up the street at Lyn-Lake, transforming itself from a coffeehouse to a bar and restaurant (and a swell patio). Wilde Roast Cafe said goodbye to its longtime E. Hennepin Avenue address in favor of the Riverplace real estate that was once ruled by Yvette, Sophia and, most recently Picosa, expanding its menu and adding tableside service, a scenic stretch of sidewalk seating and a gelato scoop counter, which is exactly what this pedestrian- and bike-friendly district needed. Process-obsessed Kopplin's Coffee also busted a move, replacing its original Randolph-and-Hamline home for a more spacious storefront at Marshall and Cleveland avenues.

Recessionary growth

He's just not that into us

What is it with the Twin Cities and high-profile chefs? Specifically, how the relationship never lasts. First Marcus Samuelsson and Aquavit. Then Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Chambers Kitchen. This year, it was Wolfgang Puck's turn: his 20.21 at the Walker Art Center and Wolfgang Puck Express at the Mall of America both disappeared. Puck fans aren't entirely out of luck, though; the California chef still has his name on a quick-service cafe at Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport.

Role call

Erik Anderson bid farewell to Sea Change, moving to Nashville and launching the critically acclaimed Catbird Seat (with Porter & Frye vet Josh Habiger); he was replaced by Jamie Malone. At Barbette, Kevin Kathman was out, and Chris Hinrichs is in. D'Amico Cucina vet John Occhiato stepped in for Hâkan Lundberg at Cosmos. When 20.21 closed, Asher Miller breathed new life into Tucci Benucch. Jorge Guzman (Tejas, Corner Table) took the helm at Solera. Kristin Tyborksi (Porter & Frye, Mill City Cafe) and Derik Moran (Nick and Eddie) stepped into the departing Jack Riebel's shoes at the Dakota Jazz Club & Restaurant. Dan Calloway (of Pescara in Rochester) took over from Michael Harper at Grand Avenue's grand dame, the Lexington. Annette Colon traded the Turtle Bread Co. for Sun Street Breads.

New in Northeast

Good news on the North Side

For a neighborhood devastated by a May tornado, it was good to hear some happy news coming out of Minneapolis' North Side: Victory 44 expanded into the coffee and breakfast business, the Lowry Cafe kicked off its breakfast/lunch/dinner service and the new West Broadway Farmers Market brought together fresh-food vendors with shoppers.

Maple-glazed bacon (and carb) goodness

It was all about the doughnut in 2011, thanks to the busy deep fryers at YoYo Donuts & Coffee Bar (a late 2010 addition), the Donut Cooperative and Mojo Monkey Donuts.

Farewell

Going, going, gone

Saturday marks the final day for Cafe Twenty Eight. The 10-year-old Linden Hills restaurant, a model of neighborliness, has lost its lease. "It's a sad thing, because the business is still strong," said co-owner Linda Haug, noting that her November numbers were up 15 percent over 2010. "But we're happy with the 10 years that we've had."

Under a rock

It sounds like a "News of the Weird" item: In April, a boulder rolled down the Wabasha bluffs and crushed the back of the building housing Bread Coffee & Cake. Fortunately, baker/owner Robert Dubuc -- who continues to nurture his sourdough starter -- hopes to reopen in a new location in 2012.

Forum fades away, again

On the avenue

Talk about spontaneous combustion: Nicollet Avenue south of Lake Street in Minneapolis is on fire, culinarily speaking. In 2011, the street added gastropub Pat's Tap, modern-day corner bar the Lowbrow, biscuits-and-braising mecca Sun Street Breads, cupcake-crazed Sweets Bakeshop and locavore-loving Wise Acre Eatery, an impressive roster that piled critical mass onto an already potent list of food-loving draws that includes La Chaya, Corner Table, Anodyne, Blackbird, C&G's Smoking Barbecue, the Kingfield Farmers Market and others. Our wish for 2012? A relocated Kmart, reconnecting this vital thoroughfare to its bustling Eat Street counterpart to the north.

Everything old is new again

Of the many remakes that stood out -- including Java Jack's becoming Jack's, Sgt. Preston's reborn as Republic -- what really stands out is Saffron Restaurant & Lounge, where brothers/co-owners Sameh and Saed Wadi dropped the white tablecloths, lowered prices, expanded their culinary horizons beyond their North African-Middle Eastern roots and made their Warehouse District restaurant an even more compelling reservation.

Career change

Who smells a trend?

Several high-profile chefs moved from restaurant kitchens to private clubs, including Hakan Lundberg, who left Cosmos for the Minneapolis Club, and Scott Pampuch, who turned his Corner Table kitchen over to his staff to feed the members of the Minnesota Valley Country Club in Bloomington.

One less critical voice

City Pages, we can only ask: What were you thinking? In September, Rachel Hutton, the alternative weekly's highly readable restaurant critic, was told that her job was eliminated and that her beat would be filled by freelancers, a curious strategy for a world with an increasingly ravenous appetite for food-and-drink coverage.

And the award goes to . . .

Top-rated

It must been a champagne-soaked night when the September issue of Bon Appetit landed in the mailbox at Travail Kitchen and Amusements. That's because the magazine named the risk-taking, fun-loving restaurant one of the nation's 10 best newcomers.

Urban improvement

Thanks to the city of Minneapolis for replacing annoying quarters-only parking meters with credit card-friendly devices. As it spreads to commercial areas from Dinkytown to Uptown, one definite upside is that the new parking program is making dining out so much more convenient. Will St. Paul follow suit?

Weekend ritual

A law we can all love

The Legislature spent most of its 2011 season in a partisan gridlock, but one piece of legislation that did manage to make it out of the Capitol allows microbreweries to open a single tap room for on-site, pint-sized sales to beer lovers. Minneapolis also tweaked several liquor-related zoning regulations, for the better. Can statewide Sunday liquor sales -- or, dare we dream, beer and wine in supermarkets -- be far behind?

And the winner was . . .

Congratulations to Isaac Becker, chef/co-owner of 112 Eatery and Bar La Grassa, who was named Best Chef: Midwest by the James Beard Foundation. Becker, who gave one of the shortest speeches on record at the Oscars of the food world in May in New York City, lovingly shared his moment at the podium with his spouse and business partner, Nancy St. Pierre.

Bottled bliss

Coming soon

There's plenty for diners to look forward to in 2012.

In early Februrary, former Dakota Jazz Club & Restaurant chef Jack Riebel launches his Butcher & the Boar gastropub/beer garden at 12th Street and Hennepin in downtown Minneapolis.

After a 13-year run, the Oceanaire Seafood Room is moving out of its remote Hyatt Regency Hotel quarters next month, for a splashy street-level address at 6th Street and Nicollet Mall; look for an added lunch menu.

The Northeast Social crew is expanding to Eat Street, taking over the 26th and Nicollet site formerly occupied by Azia. Just up the block, Mike Ryan and Matthew Bickford are launching Icehouse, a music-friendly play on their Be'wiched Deli. "We're full steam ahead and ready to make a splash this spring," said Bickford.

Masu Sushi & Robata will debut a second location in the spring, taking over the former Soul Daddy spot at the Mall of America.

St. Paul's Blue Door Pub is bringing its stuffed-burgers menu to a location in Minneapolis' Longfellow neighborhood, the owners of the Ugly Mug hope to pick up where the Inn left off in downtown Minneapolis and the Lyndale Tap House folks are promising more of the same with the Valley Tap House in Apple Valley. Also in the south suburbs: Zest! Bar & Grill opened this week, delivering craft beers, cocktails and an eclectic menu to indie-starved Eagan.

Brenda Langton of Spoonriver (and co-author Margaret Stuart) will have "The Spoonriver Cookbook" published in the spring.

In memoriam

Our condolences to the family, friends and diners of True Thai chef Anousone Phanthavong, who was killed in a hit-and-run incident in April, and to the colleagues, customers and loved ones of Good Day Cafe owner David Webb, who died in August. In the 1970s and 1980s, Webb and his brother Rick Webb launched CocoLezzone, Winfield Potter's and Rupert's.

Our top-reviewed restaurants of 2011 included:

★★★★: The Bachelor Farmer, Heidi's, Meritage

★★★1/2 : Saffron Restaurant & Lounge, Tilia

★★★: Gather, In Season, Masu, On's Kitchen, Pizzeria Lola, Sun Street Breads, Wise Acre Eatery

'Thanks'