On a busy night, more pizzas come out of Jon Felipe's kitchen at Pizza Lucé's Seward/University restaurant than you'll probably ever eat.
So what does he look for in a good pie? Tons of meat or veggies? Red sauce, white sauce, no sauce?
Sorry, trick question: He doesn't look, he listens.
"I like to hear the dough crunch when we cut it," Felipe said. "When I bite into a pizza I like to feel the crunch. That's what I want people to experience."
Toppings matter too, of course. Felipe orders the all the ingredients that go onto the restaurant's 10 gourmet specialty pizzas and five vegetarian pies, including its best-selling Pizza Athena, a Greek-inspired veggie number.
Felipe cuts loose with toppings on the slice line, going off menu to create experimental pies like the puttanesca he made a few weeks ago that involved a spicy red sauce with anchovy base, olives, sausage and cheese.
But good toppings won't fix bad crust, said Felipe, who has been working at Pizza Lucé for 18 months and in restaurant kitchens for eight years.
Felipe got his pizza making start manning a wood-burning oven in a steakhouse. "My arms would be red by the end of my shift because it was so hot," he said. "Not burned. But just kind of like burning."