In the peak of the season, it's easy to stress the importance of fresh local vegetables for a salad. But let's face it. Nothing is at its peak right now. But there are a few simple tricks for bringing those wintry carrots, cabbages and radishes into sharper focus with boldly seasoned dressings. First, chop up those vegetables.
For me, a chopped salad of brilliant colors all jumbled together is happiness in a bowl. The vegetables wilt just a little as they absorb the dressing's snappy acid. Because the vegetables fit neatly together on the fork, each bite is a blast of contrasting flavors and firm crunch.
I'm a big fan of the winter carrots from nearby Featherstone Farm that are available in most co-ops. They are a variety — Napoli — that becomes sweeter as their starches convert to sugar, yet they remain firm through storage. Especially tasty right now, they're great for eating raw, and terrific roasted and sautéed.
Those pretty watermelon radishes, with their pale green skins and shocking pink interiors, add a peppery bite to the mix and work beautifully with the slightly nutty flavor of celeriac and the bright cabbage. That said, just about anything crunchy will work nicely in this toss-up — red and green and yellow bell peppers, celery, bok choy, radicchio, cucumbers, jicama, apples, Asian pears, as well as toasted nuts and coconut.
I like to make up a big batch of chopped vegetable salads for munching over the course of several days. Once the ingredients are prepped and ready, think about ways to extend and vary the mix with nubs of creamy fresh goat cheese one night, a good sharp Cheddar, or nose-tingling blue the next. Add leftover cooked chicken, steak or pork for a satisfying lunch.
The two dressings here — one sweet and sharp, the other hot and tangy — are great to have on hand. I brush the honey-mustard vinaigrette over chicken, pork and lamb, as well as sweet potatoes and carrots as they roast. It makes a nice finish to pilafs of wild rice, farro or barley. The chile-lime vinaigrette is especially good in a black bean salad, drizzled into a stir-fry of chicken or shrimp, and brushed on grilled steak.
When the weather is still wintry, a simple salad is cheery and brightens up the plate.
Winter Chop Chop Salad
Serves 4 to 6.