Zuani "Vigne" Collio Bianco 2006

The experience: The whole is decidedly greater than the sum of its parts in this lush and lovely melding of four white grapes (fruliano, sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio and chardonnay). Peach, melon and minerality pervade the nose and palate, but this blend is more complex than all that, with perfect ripeness and an extraordinarily long, clean finish. It's generally just over $20, and a great introduction for those who might think that's a bit too much for a white wine.

The setting: Rich enough to hold up to salmon or roast pork, this unoaked wine is also a great match for a wide array of seafood and chicken dishes, pasta, risotto and gnocchi.

The back story: Winemaker Patrizia Felluga, perhaps the most respected female vintner in all of Italy, has quite the pedigree: Wines from family members Marco Felluga and Livio Felluga are also well worth seeking out.