Vignarco Orvieto Classico 2016

Try as I might, it’s a challenge to find under-$12 wines worth touting in this friendly cubbyhole. So when I find a $12 white that would be a deal at twice the price, it’s quite gratifying. The Vignarco Orvieto Classico 2016 is just such a wine: fresh, vibrant and juicy. The nose alone is worth the money with super-ripe lemon and olive and white flowers galore. The crisp but silky texture, vivacious citrus flavors and mouthwatering acidity satisfy through the surprisingly long finish. This blend from the Italian region of Umbria is 80 percent procanico and grechetto, with dollops of verdello, malvasia and drupeggio. Go for the seafood here, or enjoy summer’s-a-fleeting tomato dishes, such as gazpacho or fried green ’maters.

Available at Liquor Barn, Excelsior Vintage, Wine Thief, France 44, Top Ten Woodbury, Tessa’s Office (Rochester) and others.