Pullus Pinot Grigio 2017

Sometimes a wine has such enticing aromas that I simply want to smell it. The Pullus Pinot Grigio 2017 ($16) goes that one better: I just want to look at it. The color is a fascinating amalgam of gold and rose, with a bit of effervescence. Oh, and the nose is pretty fab, too, and complex: melon, pear and citrus. From the oldest winery in Slovenia, this white gem tastes every bit as alluring as it looks and smells, with racy fruit flavors, a surprisingly robust texture and a long, lush finish. This is decidedly not your Aunt Martha's pinot grigio, but rather a sturdy, savory treat. Rich seafood or fowl dishes (including pheasant or quail) and grilled onions make for swell accompaniments.

Available at Vinifera, Kowalski's, Haskell's, the Wine Shop, McDonald's, Edina munis and others.

BILL WARD