K. Wechsler 'Fräulein Hu' 2017

When greeted with "How are you?" my late, great colleague Al Sicherman would invariably reply, "Odd, but likable." That's actually an apt description of the fascinating K. Wechsler "Fräulein Hu" 2017 ($20). With an alluring floral nose, a sweet tinge on the palate, tingly effervescence and a surprisingly bracing finish, this white delight might take some getting used to but is worth the effort. The name makes it sound like a German-Chinese hybrid, but this is a German white all the way; the obscure grape huxelrebe gives it the second part of the name (there's also a bit of pinot blanc, riesling and Müller-­Thurgau in the mix). Those who eat veal will love pairing it with this wine, which also works with rich or zesty fish or fowl dishes.

Available at Central Avenue, Zipp's, Lake Wine and Spirits, Thomas and Stinson.

Bill Ward