Few domestic whites "punch up above their weight class," year in and year out, more adeptly than the Joel Gott California Sauvignon Blanc. The 2013 version ($13) is still as fresh as spring flowers — and smells like them, too. The lovely combination of citrus and tropical fruits is undergirded by some racy acidity and a wet-stones minerally texture. The finish is clean and refreshing. Among many apt accompaniments are fried fish (or fried anything; this would be a fabulous State Fair wine), grilled zucchini and crisp summer salads.

Available at MGM, Total, Haskell's, Surdyk's, Hennepin Lake, the Vintage, Morelli's and others.

BILL WARD