Summer's a-fleetin' -- and officially ends next week -- but it's not too late for a refreshing Greek white. The Boutari Moschofilero ($14) is light and lively, crisp before developing some nice roundness and redolent of citrus & peach. In the grows-together-goes-together-vein, anything from the delicious lemon soup known as avgolemono to a Greek salad pairs beautifully with this zingy white. Opa!

BILL WARD