What a difference 40 years makes. When I was stationed in Italy in the late 1970s, the wines labeled “Orvieto” were severely lacking in fruit, basically undrinkable. Today, one can get a fabulous white wine from the Umbrian town of Orvieto for $9. The Due Mari Orvieto 2016 is cool and crisp, with green apple and citrus flavors dancing across the palate, followed by a vibrant, mouthwatering finish. A prototypical summer refresher showcasing perfectly ripe fruit and deft balance, this is an eminently quaffable wine, especially at only 12 percent alcohol. Ceviche, shrimp cocktail (or shrimp anything) and the homegrown tomatoes that are starting to hit local farmers markets are splendid accompaniments.

Available at Cedar Lake, Atomic Liquors, Wayzata Muni, Skol, Little Wine Shoppe, Cellars Roseville, Lake Wine & Spirits and others)

Bill Ward