Domaine de l’Idylle Savoie Cruet 2016

In most endeavors, I tend to believe in Voltaire’s axiom that “the perfect is the enemy of the good.” But when a wine truly is in perfect harmony — the sugar, acid and alcohol seamlessly aligned — pure bliss ensues. The Domaine de l’Idylle Savoie Cruet 2016 ($14) is just such a wine. This French white, a blend dominated by the jacquere grape, is crisp throughout and light at the outset before bringing on a mouthful of citrus and apple flavors. The finish, as refreshing as the air in the Alpine region from which it emanates, goes on for days. The Tiollier family has been growing grapes since 1840, and they have it nailed. Bring on the fish or fowl, prepared in pretty much any fashion.

Available at Thomas, South Lyndale, France 44, Thomas, North Loop and Wine Thief.

Bill Ward