Buglioni “il Disperato” Bianco ’16

For years, the garganega grape was ill-served by bulk bottlings carrying the regional Soave name. These days, not only are the Soaves decidedly better, but other offerings such as the Buglioni “il Disperato” Bianco ’16 ($19) provide infinite pleasure. Boasting a lovely straw/golden color scheme, it’s just as pretty on the nose and palate, with vibrant lemon-lime and tropical flavors and a touch of savoriness. The spot-on balance of fruit and acidity perks up the wine all the way through the refined, refreshing finish. In the grows together/goes together vein, this Italian white is a swell matchup for risotto (especially with seafood), polenta or pasta.

Available at Old Vine, France 44, Liquor Barn, the Vintage and North Loop

Bill Ward