2015 Sauvion Chinon

I loves me some cabernet franc, but the varietal has yet to catch on the way it should, partly because too many vintners try to make it resemble its offspring (cabernet sauvignon's parents are cab franc and sauvignon blanc). Enter the 2015 Sauvion Chinon ($15), a pure, classic expression of this wondrous grape from France's Loire region. It's mouth-filling and mouthwatering, with trademark red and blue fruit and some beautifully integrated herbal notes. And talk about balance: The spot-on acidity and tannins provide an engaging mouthfeel and finish. While sturdy enough to hang with grilled burgers and brats, this is a fabulous match for white meat (chicken and pork) cooked most any way. And a swell patio sipper.

Available at the Wine Shop and Excelsior Vintage.

BILL WARD