2015 Monsieur Touton Bordeaux Sauvignon

In real life, “unassuming” is not generally much of a compliment, but when it comes to wine, it can be quite the kudos. The 2015 Monsieur Touton Bordeaux Sauvignon ($11) is as straightforward and honest as wine gets. No gimmicks or spoofulating here, just pure, unadulterated — and mighty tasty — fruit. It’s not a wallflower, though, as the crisp citrus flavor perks up the palate all the way through the clean, smooth finish. It’s like drinking honey-lemon tea, with a kick (but not too much of one: it’s just 12 percent alcohol). This French white would be a great party wine, a true crowd pleaser, but it’s also nicely suited for shrimp and other fruits of the sea, raw or cooked.

Available at Sunfish Cellars and all Top Ten stores.

Bill Ward