West Coast wineries use two different terms for the same grape, but in general those labeled "Pinot Grigio" tend to be modeled after big and bouncy Italian versions and "Pinot Gris" after drier but still fruity French renditions. The 2014 Lone Birch Pinot Gris Yakima Valley ($13) has elements of both, with seriously juicy tropical and pear flavors and a tinge of sweetness, but a mouthwateringly dry and lengthy finish. Most of all, it's just plain delicious. The Washington white would play well with fish tacos and ceviche, but also with most mild to medium-spiced Asian dishes.

Bill Ward

Available at Cork Dork, most Haskell's, Solo Vino, 1010 Washington and Stinson.