The first task of a wine is to taste good. No wonder I was immediately enamored of the 2014 Domaine des Cassagnoles Cotes de Gascogne ($12), a seriously delicious white blend (colombard, ugni blanc, gros manseng) from southwestern France. The nose is almost deliriously fresh and vibrant, loaded with floral and citrus notes. Gobs of refreshing Meyer lemon and stone-fruit flavors dance with racy acidity on the palate, and the finish is pure and persistent. Yum. Bonus points for having only 12 percent alcohol, especially for something so quaffable. It's a swell aperitif, or a great mate for seafood of any sort (ceviche!), fried or roasted chicken or most anything from the squash/gourd family.

Available at Henry & Son, Solo Vino, the Wine Shop, France 44, Wine Thief and others.