2014 Cambiata Rail 2 Rail Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel

What a wonderful barbecue season we're enjoying, and as we hit another warmish spell, that holds especially true. For many of us, barbecue means zinfandel, especially one like the 2014 Cambiata Rail 2 Rail Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel ($15). This lively zin is a red-berry delight, with the kind of spiciness that plays beautifully with zesty 'cue sauces and a sturdy finish. Like other Cambiata wines — the tannat and albariño are true gems — it boasts beautiful harmony of fruit, acidity and tannins, plus an apt reflection of where the grapes were grown. Try it with (duh) slathered ribs or chicken, burgers, brats and pizza.

Available at Shorewood, Vinifera, Dolce Vita, Zipps, Lake Wine & Spirits, France 44, Kowalski's and the Little Wine Shoppe.

BILL WARD