I never would have thought of blending chardonnay and riesling, but I'm glad the folks at the fabulous upstate New York winery Dr. Konstantin Frank winery did. Their 2013 Salmon Run Finger Lakes Chardonnay Riesling ($13) is cleaner than expected, but also showcases the merits of both varieties: the citrus/tropical fruit of chardonnay and the pear notes and minerality of riesling. The blend is almost half-and-half (51 percent chardonnay), and the quaffability is enhanced by a refreshing 11.7 percent alcohol level. It probably plays well with the fish on its label, and definitely is well-suited for grilled fowl or summer veggies, fried green tomatoes and salads with (or without) seafood.

Available at Cork Dork, BrightWines, Lake Wine & Cheese, Dolce Vita, Oaks and others

BILL WARD