Wine of the week: 2013 La Bodega de Pinoso "Flos de Pinoso"

The grape we generally know as mourvèdre and associate with southern France actually originated in Spain, where it is called monastrell. The 2013 La Bodega de Pinoso "Flos de Pinoso" ($15) is a beautiful expression of the variety, sturdy but brighter than most renditions. Yes, there are the black pepper and meaty notes that typify the grape, but there's also more herb (tarragon) and red fruit (fresh and dried) notes on the palate, and the tannins are not nearly as brutish as usual. This is a harmonious wine, with major oomph at the back end: power and grace, one of wine's great surprising combos. The grapes are organically grown, by the way. Fire up the grill and put on burgers, sausages, pizzas or just about anything to pair with this little gem.

Available at Henry & Son and Lake Wine & Spirits.