It was perhaps Washington's first red blend, dating to 1987, and the 2011 Hedges CMS ($14) is still among the best, and absolutely one of the foremost values from the Evergreen State. The initials represent the grapes — cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah — and the flavors reflect the complexity: darker berry and cherry notes and some cocoa/chocolate. This is a "friendly" wine, with touches of spice and toast and just-right acidity and tannins, harmoniously blended as always. Most any grilled food, from portobellos and sausages to pizza, will cozy right up to this tasty, hearty delight.

Available at Hennepin-Lake, Wine Republic, Elevated, North Loop, Marshall Liquors, Westside, France 44 and others.

BILL WARD