If you vowed to give up sweets after the holidays, the Risata Moscato d'Asti ($15) is a cruel temptress. This pure-as-the-driven-snow wine has a floral, citrusy nose that belies the stone-fruit sweetness to come. And at just 5.5 percent alcohol -- about the same as a beer -- it's almost too quaffable. That makes this Italian white a great choice with dessert -- or as a stand-alone dessert.
BILL WARD
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