Time to think green, as in green wine, as in vinho verde. The wine is only faintly green in hue, actually more straw-colored, and the Portuguese translation in this case means "young." One of the best is Pavao, a zingy, slightly spritzy, very crisp jolt of spring and summer delight. There's lots of fruit and one of the cleanest finishes you'll ever find, all for $10 or less. You just might want to buy it by the case.
BILL WARD
