WINE
It's not yet time to switch to fuller-bodied wines, but as autumn beckons, a lighter, brighter red is a nice fit. The Lucarelli Gran Sasso Primitivo ($12) is a spicy offering with lively red fruit and just enough tannins. Like the better renditions of its first cousin, zinfandel, this primitivo is both fruity and a bit earthy. And like zin, it is the perfect red for a raft of summer staples: burgers, brats, barbecue (ribs or pulled pork), grilled pizza. Or toss some fresh tomatoes in with some pasta and pour this puppy with aplomb.
BILL WARD
