Riesling grapes grow best in cooler weather (thus their epicenter in Germany/Austria/Alsace), so it's no surprise that some good renditions are coming out of northern states such as New York and Michigan. The 2012 Chateau Grand Traverse Old Mission Peninsula "Whole Cluster" Riesling ($15) from the latter state is a delicious intro, vivid and vibrant with stone-fruit flavors and silky but hefty texture. The long finish is clean but rich. Pairing options include not only autumn classics such as roast pork with apples and roasted root veggies, but all manner of spicy foods. (There's a reason your better Thai restaurants have a lot of riesling on their lists.)
Available at Top Ten/Northgate, Bacchus, Wine Thief, Greenway, Lake Wine and Cheese and others.
BILL WARD
