Anyone who tried the manufactured Soaves of yore needs to put those memories aside and check out the deliciousness currently emanating from that subregion of Italy's Veneto. The 2013 Tamellini Soave ($15) is packed with flavor and energy, its delicious citrus and stone-fruit notes making their presence known from the alluring nose through the refreshing finish. There's blissful harmony with the soft acidity and smooth minerality. Yum. Try it with shrimp (on the barbecue or any old way) or spring salads with chicken or seafood (or without).

Available at Bacchus, Domacin, Kowalski's, Thomas and South Lyndale.

BILL WARD