Chenin blanc and chardonnay make for an odd combination, and only a deft vintner can get the proportions right. But when I saw that the fabulous winery Domaine du Tariquet was making a 2013 Chenin-Chardonnay ($12), I was pumped. That confidence was well-founded, as this white from France's Gascony region delivers lovely floral and fruit aromatics and mineral-laced citrus and pear deliciousness, literally gliding over the palate to a long, swell finish. Seafood, especially shellfish and anything with a rich sauce, is an ideal accompaniment, and most any salad, especially with chicken or seafood, should also play well with this.

Available at 1010 Washington and Solo Vino.