Longtime Muscadet lovers might be a bit dismayed, but I'm joyful that many wineries there have stopped burying their fruit underneath salinity and acidity. The 2013 Chateau de L'Aiguillette Muscadet Sevre et Maine ($14) has the requisite verve and vivacity but also some seriously tasty pear and citrus fruit flavors and loads of lift and energy. Love love love the finish on this wine. The grape, by the way, is called melon de Borgogne but no longer is grown in Burgundy. Try this with oysters, shellfish or any salad with a tangy vinaigrette.

Available at Oaks Wine & Spirits, the Wine Market, McDonald's, Excelsior Vintage, Thomas, 61 Liquors, Fridley munis, Village Wine & Spirits and others.