There is a boatload of mediocre sangiovese out there, so it's a true delight to come across a $15 bottle as stellar as the 2012 Fontaleoni Chianti Colli Senese. This Italian red has characteristic tart cherry flavors and racy acidity, but also ample backbone and stuffing from spot-on tannins. The finish is lively but also stouter than most Chiantis provide. In the grows-together-goes-together vein, this is a delightful match for pizza and pasta with tomato sauce but also should play nicely with roast fowl or herb-laden pork.
Available at Lowertown, Haskell's Bloomington, Vinifera, Revival, Domacin, Premier and the Little Wine Shoppe.
BILL WARD
