Wine

Now that albariƱo has established itself hereabouts as a go-to crispy but hearty white, it's time for another white Spanish varietal, godello, to make its presence known. The 2012 Alvarez de Toledo Bierzo Godello ($15) offers up lovely floral and stone-fruit notes on the nose and then bops the palate with a crisp, refreshing array of fruit flavors, citrus leading the way (orange!), with a little green apple and a lot of backbone on the midpalate and finish. That's the formula for a great seafood wine, from ceviche to scallops and salmon. It also would be a dandy contribution to a paella party.

Available at Lund's (Minneapolis), Byerly's (Minnetonka, Golden Valley and Maple Grove, McDonald's and Whole Foods (Minneapolis)

BILL WARD