Win over tofu skeptics by crisping it in the oven

Even with a centuries-old culinary history, tofu is still misunderstood.

I've found that the key to convincing skeptics is to serve it crisped. You don't have to fry tofu to achieve those golden, tender nuggets on Asian restaurant menus. All it takes is the right kind of tofu, a seasoned coating and a turn in a hot oven.

To start, choose extra-firm tofu. Firm tofu will also work, but because it's softer and squishier, it takes a while to become fully crisped. Avoid soft tofu — it contains too much moisture and won't dry out and brown. All tofu is packed in water, so the first step is to remove the moisture before cooking. While most recipes suggest weighing down the entire block of tofu, slicing it into cubes before pressing will give all the surfaces a chance to dry before being coated.

The next step is to lightly slick the cubes with oil and then dust them with cornstarch. (Arrowroot and rice flour will work, too, but they don't really brown.) To season the tofu, spike the coating with the flavors you like — paprika, ground cumin, red pepper flakes, ground pepper. Working with dry spices makes more sense than marinating the tofu, which just re-immerses it in liquid after you've taken great pains to press the water out.

Scatter the tofu cubes onto baking sheets and then roast in a hot oven. The nuggets are great for topping off noodle soups, stir-fried vegetables, cooked whole grains and salads. I like them best nibbled straight off the pan, a good reason to double the recipe and roast an extra batch.

Serves 4.

Note: You can skip the soupy noodles and just serve the crispy tofu on cooked rice or whole grains or in a salad. They're also great simply picked right off the pan. From Beth Dooley.

• Generous pinch salt and freshly ground black pepper

• Generous pinch paprika, optional

• 1 (12- to 15-oz.) block tofu

• 1 tbsp. sesame or vegetable oil

• Asian Noodle Soup (see recipe)

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees and line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. In a small bowl, stir together the cornstarch, salt, pepper and paprika.

Remove the tofu from the tub and gently squeeze out some of the water with your palms. Slice the tofu lengthwise into thirds to make 3 slabs, then cut the slabs into 2-inch cubes. Line a pan or cutting board with paper towels and arrange the cubes on the towel in an even layer. Then cover with another paper towel and top with a cutting board or baking sheet and weigh that down with a cast iron pan or heavy books. Press the tofu for at least 15 minutes or up to 30 minutes.

In a medium mixing bowl, toss the tofu cubes with the oil and gently toss with the seasoned cornstarch to coat the tofu evenly.

Arrange the tofu on the parchment-lined baking sheet and bake until the tofu is deeply golden on the edges, about 25 to 30 minutes. Serve the tofu on top of the Asian Noodle Soup.

Serves 4.

• 4 c. chicken or vegetable stock

• 1-in. piece fresh ginger, grated

• 3 green onions, sliced into rounds

• 1 carrot, sliced into match-sized pieces

• 6 oz. thin pasta or Chinese noodles

• Crisped tofu (see recipe)

Directions

In a large saucepan over high heat, bring the stock to a boil. Reduce the heat, add the ginger, green onions, carrot and noodles, and simmer until the noodles are just tender, about 4 to 8 minutes, depending on their size. Ladle into four bowls and top with crisped tofu.