OK, so we're back to typical Minnesota spring weather, and a not-too-heavy red might be in order. The vibrant but hearty Rosa Fiore Barbera D'Asti ($10) more than fills the bill; actually, it fills the mouth with racy red-berry flavors, and then the throat with a wonderful finish. Chicken prepared in most any fashion pairs beautifully with this, and don't get me started on its affinity for morels.
BILL WARD