It's natural to opt for hearty reds when the weather turns as frightful as it has this week. Being a counter-intuitive sort from way back, I'm just as inclined to reach for something like the Lorgoril Carcassone Pennatier Cabardes Blanc ($12). Made from white Rhône grapes such as marsanne and bourboulenc, it offers up a massive floral nose and a surprisingly light, dry mouthfeel. The fruit is subtle but plenty substantial, and the finish is lovely. Any seafood dish should play well with this.
BILL WARD
