By the time winter reaches its midpoint, it is easy to feel like the only sensible plan is to hunker down and wait for brighter days. Hosting a winter brunch, though — something colorful, comforting and celebratory — can be the perfect way to bring a little sunshine to a cold, gray season.
A fennel salad makes a bright, refreshing start, especially as winter citrus hits its peak. Thinly sliced fennel provides the crisp backbone, its mild sweetness pairing beautifully with apples, pomegranate seeds and juicy orange slices. A miso-apple cider vinaigrette keeps the dish from leaning too sweet. The miso brings an umami punch that balances the fennel and is the perfect foil to the fruit, giving the salad a savory depth that wakes the palate and sets a lively tone for the rest of the meal.
Crepes always feel like a party, and part of their charm is how easy they are to prepare. They can be made the day before, stacked between parchment sheets, covered and tucked into the refrigerator until needed. That alone makes them a gift to any host. But when you top them with a cream made from mascarpone — cream cheese’s richer, sexier Italian cousin — and warm brandied pears swimming in a caramel sauce, they become something truly special.
Of course, every brunch needs a showstopper, and ours comes straight from the viral Dubai chocolate trend. Instead of serving it in its usual chocolate bar form, we fold those flavors into a flaky tart with a pistachio frangipane and a crispy mix of kataifi and pistachio cream, which is now widely available at most grocery stores. (Kataifi, those fine, shredded pastry threads, can be ordered online or picked up at a Middle Eastern market.) Together, they create a dessert that is dramatic without being fussy, offering a mix of silky, crunchy and gooey textures with just the right hit of saltiness to make guests lean in for seconds.
If you feel like your brunch table needs protein to be complete, just add your favorite egg dish or a platter of crispy bacon or sliced baked ham. If you’re going the ham route, make sure it’s not coated in a sweet glaze. Between the crepes and the tart, you’ve got everyone’s sweet tooth covered.
A winter brunch doesn’t need to be elaborate to feel restorative. A few thoughtful dishes, a chilled bottle of bubbly or a pot of good coffee and the simple pleasure of gathering around a table can shift the whole mood of the season and create a moment of brightness. And that’s its own kind of comfort.
Fennel Salad with Winter Fruits and Miso Vinaigrette
Serves 8.
Fresh, crisp and brightly flavored, this salad is lovely for a brunch but works just as well at dinner too. A mandoline helps get consistently thin slices of the fennel, shallot and apple, but a sharp knife works well, too. From Meredith Deeds.