These hot summer days call for crisp, refreshing foods, and the vegetable best suited to the task is the cool, crunchy cucumber.
Take those Persian cucumbers — small, thin skinned, practically seedless and plentiful at our farmers markets. They're convenient and especially easy to use: no peeling, no seeding, just scrub and chop, slice or grate for snacks, salads, sauces, sandwiches and soups. And they're universal.
In China, people buy whole chilled cucumbers from street vendors to eat on the go. In Thailand, cucumbers are mashed or sliced and soaked in water and mint to make a refreshing drink. In Japan, they're grated and tossed into vinaigrette of soy sauce, rice vinegar, garlic and sesame oil, spiked with chiles. Throughout the Mediterranean, cucumbers are essential in a variety of cooling salads, soups and sauces.
But our favorite is tzatziki, the ubiquitous Greek yogurt-cucumber condiment.
Variations on this delicious, cooling combo include cacik in Turkey, tarator in the Balkans, and raita in India. The yogurt may be from cow, sheep or goat's milk, but it must be strained and very thick. It's mixed with smashed garlic and finely chopped or grated cucumbers that are first drained. In the Balkans, this sauce becomes a soup when enriched with ground walnuts.
In Greece, tzatziki is served on gyros sandwiches, grilled lamb kebabs and roasted chicken. Thanks to its garlicky goodness, it will disappear quickly when served with grilled pita bread, chips and crisps. Tossed with whole grains — such as barley, wild rice, brown rice, wheat berries, couscous or quinoa — it makes a wonderfully hearty and satisfying main dish salad.
While some recipes call for sour cream and others for nonfat yogurt, we like whole milk Greek-style yogurt best. Sour cream makes the sauce too thick and rich and lacks yogurt's distinctive tang, while nonfat yogurt has less body. Be sure to avoid yogurts with fillers and stabilizers, as they can make the sauce seem gummy.
It's important to let the cucumbers drain to release their liquid before adding to the mix; this keeps it from becoming watery. Let the tzatziki "rest" for at least 30 minutes or longer in the refrigerator before using to give the flavors a chance to marry.