Twilight race across the bay

Skiing or snowshoeing 10 kilometers. Across Lake Superior's frozen, secluded Chequamegon Bay. At night, your path lit by hundreds of ice-clad luminarias. It doesn't get much better than this. Oh wait, it does -- après ski, there's chili, hot chocolate, beer, live music and fireworks. There's nothing else quite like Book Across the Bay, a race that runs from Ashland to Washburn, Wis. Sign up now if you want in on this year's fun.

Why go now

Book Across the Bay is hot. During its inaugural race on a frosty night in 1997, 350 people showed up. By 2009, entries for the mid-February event were at 2,600; in 2010, 3,300 showed up -- a 27 percent increase in just one year. Organizers say it's now the second- or third-largest Nordic ski race in the Midwest, and possibly the United States. And the 2011 race, set for Feb. 19, marks its 15th anniversary (www.batb.org). Registration fees now are $10 for children and students, $15 for adults and $35 for families, and increase after Feb. 9.

What's the course like?

The race is open to Nordic skiers (classic and skater style) and snowshoers. If weather conditions allow, you can also walk. But that's not determined until about a week out, so don't count on it. To spread out the field, you're asked to line up according to your predicted time: Under 45 minutes, 1:15 or faster and those out purely for fun.

Skiers start first, with skaters staying to the left of the luminarias and classic skiers staying to the right, in one of four sets of tracks. Snowshoers (and walkers, if permitted) take off 10 minutes later. With a 6 p.m. start, the light is fading fast. Soon only the stars, moon and hundreds of candles, set in large hunks of ice, are lighting your way -- generally just enough light to see where you're going.

Every kilometer, enthusiastic cheerleaders at brightly lit aid stations offer snacks, water, hot drinks and plenty of encouragement. When you glide across the finish line, your name and hometown are announced, garnering wild applause.

Associated events

Two special events are held in conjunction with "the Book," as locals call it, although they're not well publicized. A small, but relatively steep sledding hill is created on a small patch of land tucked between Hotel Chequamegon and the registration tent; you can bring your sled and use it gratis Friday and Saturday.

And Friday night features the Bands Before the Book event in the registration tent, where you can take in free live music. Food and beverages are also available.

Plan ahead

Make sure you book a hotel room as soon as you enter, or you'll be out of luck. Ashland is home to just under 9,000 people, so it's a big deal when 3,300 turn up for a ski race. But if there's no room in the inn, don't fret; popular tourist town Bayfield, Wis., is just 20 minutes to the north, and has a wealth of lodging options.

Our little secret

If you like wild rice, Ashland is the place to buy it. It's sold all over town at great prices, although it's a little harder to find in winter. But keep your eyes open; coffee shops and convenience stores often have small signs advertising the tasty delicacy.

Melanie Radzicki McManus is a freelance writer living in Sun Prairie, Wis.