Travail Kitchen & Amusements turns bar into a pop-up for staffers

March 2, 2016 at 8:27PM
The team behind Travail Kitchen and Amusement: James Winberg, Kale Thorne, Mike Brown and Bob Gerken.
The team behind Travail Kitchen and Amusement: James Winberg, Kale Thorne, Mike Brown and Bob Gerken. (The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Leave it to the mighty creative forces at Travail Kitchen & Amusements (4124 W. Broadway, Robbinsdale, travailkitchen.com) to stretch the definition of "pop-up."

This time around, chefs/co-owners James Winberg, Mike Brown and Bob Gerken are stepping aside. They're turning over the seats in the restaurant's bar, the Rookery, to a different staffer every two months, allowing them to create their own temporary restaurant-within-a-restaurant they're calling Spotlight.

"It's about giving the talented people working for us the actual opportunity of running a restaurant, without the risk of failing," said Winberg. "This is basically their way of finding an identity, expressing their own style, and cooking good food."

It's set up as a one-man/-woman marathon.

"They'll be planning the menus, prepping, working the line, running dishes, doing cleanup, even the financials," said Brown. As an additional motivator, those who surpass a financial break-even point will share in the profits.

First up is Nate Moser, taking the March 2-April 30 shift.

"When I go out, I like to sit at bars and eat bar food," said Moser. "So I'll be making bar food that I like to eat."

He'll be followed by Andy Goettsch, who will be running the show from May 4 through June 25.

"My concept is basically going to be pasta," said Goettsch. "Some light crudos, some gelato and sorbet. It's the things that I know and love, and that I love to cook."

Spotlight will follow Travail's Wednesday-through-Saturday schedule.

Dine like it's 1957

Get ready to greet the Hi-Lo Diner (4020 E. Lake St., Mpls.,hi-lo-diner.com).

The 1957 factory-built beauty spent decades outside Pittsburgh as the Venus Diner. It rolled into Minneapolis last August on the back of a pair of semitrailer trucks, and came to rest in front of an abandoned Taco Bell. Happily, all that remains of that fast-food eyesore is a walk-in cooler and a pair of exterior walls.

"We kept them up, in part, because we want to remind ourselves that we saved the city from another Taco Bell," said co-owner Mike Smith with a laugh.

Chef Heidi Marsh (a veteran of Stillwater's Chilkoot Cafe and the Green Room) is pledging classic breakfast-lunch-dinner diner fare, prepared with fresh ingredients.

"Our goal is to have the food match the aesthetic expectations," said Smith.

One house specialty will be Hi-Tops, doughnut-like fried dough crowned with all kinds of goodness: fried chicken, Korean short ribs with hoisin slaw, a cheese-curd/onion-ring/fried-egg combination.

Dan Oskey of Tattersall Distilling is developing a cocktail menu that will focus on midcentury libations, served to 2 a.m. on weekends and to midnight Sunday through Thursday.

The venture is a collaboration between the Blue Door Pub (1811 Selby Av., St. Paul; 3448 42nd Av. S., Mpls.; 1514 Como Av. SE., Mpls., bdp.com) and the neighboring Forage Modern Workshop and Brownsmith Restoration.

The painstakingly restored 82-seat (12 are counter stools, naturally) interior is just as much of a knockout as the gleaming exterior.

Oh, and the Hi-Lo moniker? It honors the Hiawatha and Longfellow names that play such an outsized role in that part of the city.

Look for a mid-March opening.

The Hi-Lo Diner on East Lake Street in Minneapolis.
The Hi-Lo Diner is on E. Lake Street in Minneapolis. (The Minnesota Star Tribune)
about the writer

about the writer

Rick Nelson

Reporter

Rick Nelson joined the staff of the Star Tribune in 1998. He is a Twin Cities native, a University of Minnesota graduate and a James Beard Award winner. 

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