When I was a kid, the best thing about our Super Bowl parties was Aunt Ruth's spinach dip. She served it in hollowed-out sourdough, and we scooped it up with chunks of that bread, along with chips and carrots. The whole snack vanished before the first half.

That ranch-powered blend still gives me a giddy teenage buzz. But now I've discovered borani. It's a genius combination of cooked spinach (or kale, collards or any cooked green) with super-thick strained plain yogurt and Middle Eastern spices, served garnished with caramelized onions and lightly toasted lavash.

The recipe is of ancient Persian origin, but suits snacktime in front of an all-American sport. Even Aunt Ruth would approve of this lush and tangy dip, a bit lighter and healthier than hers and just as easy to make.

The key to the recipe is to use strained whole-milk yogurt. You can use a good, all natural, commercial Greek yogurt, or make your own. Look for brands that are 100 percent natural, not thickened with stabilizers (good choices include Old Home, Super Kalona and Organic Valley).

To make your own Greek yogurt, simply line a strainer with several layers of cheesecloth, dump in the plain whole-milk yogurt, set over a bowl, and strain in the refrigerator for a day or two until it's as thick as sour cream. Be aware that the volume will reduce by half.

If using fresh spinach, it needs to be lightly blanched in boiling water for a few seconds, then drained and patted dry. Or, far easier, use a good frozen, chopped spinach. Then thaw and drain it really well before patting it dry.

To perk up this dip, I rely on za'atar, an aromatic and ancient spice blend of thyme, sesame seeds, sumac and salt, which is used in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines. You can find za'atar in the spice aisles of some grocery stores, spice shops and online, though it's easy to make your own.

Borani is also terrific served on grilled fish, roasted lamb and in sandwiches. Try it slathered into pita with cucumbers and chopped cilantro.

Borani will keep for about three days in the refrigerator, so feel free to make it ahead. You can skip the onion garnish or add it right before serving. No matter what the gathering — that big game, a cross-country ski party, a fireside dinner — this dip is a winner.

Borani

Makes about 2 cups.

Note: Fresh spinach can be substituted with 1 cup thawed frozen chopped spinach, well drained and patted dry. Find the spice blend za'atar in many grocery stores and food co-ops or make your own. An all-around seasoning, it perks up salads, soups stews and sautés. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 c. plain whole-milk Greek yogurt (or make your own, see below)

• 4 c. fresh chopped spinach, kale or mixed greens (see Note)

• 2 tbsp. za'atar (see Note or recipe)

• 1 tbsp. unsalted butter

• 1 c. thinly sliced white onions

Directions

To make your own Greek yogurt: Line a fine mesh strainer with 2 layers of cheesecloth. Set over a bowl and pour in 2 cups of whole-milk yogurt. Place in the refrigerator and allow the whey to drain off until the consistency is as thick as sour cream, at least 12 hours. Store in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to a week.

To prepare borani: Bring 1/2 cup water to boil and quickly blanch the greens until very bright, about 30 seconds. Drain immediately in a colander, pressing down with your hands to remove as much moisture as possible and pat dry with a clean dishcloth or paper towel. Place in a mixing bowl and stir in the yogurt. Season to taste with za'atar.

To prepare onions: Right before serving, set skillet over medium heat and melt butter. When it foams, add the onions, reduce the heat and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions become very brown, about 10 minutes.

To serve: Spoon the onions on top of the borani and serve with toasted lavash pita, or chips.

Nutrition information per ¼ cup serving:

Calories65Fat5 gSodium80 mg

Carbohydrates4 gSaturated fat3 gTotal sugars2 g

Protein2 gCholesterol15 mgDietary fiber1 g

Exchanges per serving: ½ carb, 1 fat.

Za'atar

Makes about 2 1/2 tablespoons.

Note: Ground sumac is available at some specialty stores and at Middle Eastern grocery stores. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 tbsp. sesame seeds

• 1 tbsp. minced fresh thyme

• 1 tsp. ground sumac (see Note)

• 1/4 tsp. coarse salt, or to taste

• Ground black pepper, to taste

Directions

To toast sesame seeds: Heat sesame seeds in a dry pan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until seeds lightly brown and become fragrant. Cool before using.

To prepare spice mixture: In a small bowl or jar, stir together all the ingredients. Store any leftovers in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 10 days.

Beth Dooley is the author of "In Winter's Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.